How big of a project will it be to replace the rotted OSB and corner studs, remove the siding, and add house wrap to prevent moisture and pest issues in the basement?
Asked by Paula Steen 
4 months ago
Last Updated: July 26, 2024
The person who lived here before put mulch all around, which caused some dampness and bug problems in the basement. I was curious, so I peeked under the siding and saw that the OSB and corner studs are all rotted. How much work do you think this will be? I’m thinking I’ll have to take off the siding until the rot is gone, put in new OSB and studs, then add some house wrap. I really want to make sure it’s all sealed up tight and stop those box elder bugs from getting in.
You should definitely do everything you mentioned, but good luck trying to get rid of those box elder bugs. I work as a contractor and recently built my own house, and now I have to deal with them inside.
Were those staples bent over in the second image? If not, someone else did it to conceal the damage
Mentioned that the siding was recently replaced, about 4 years ago. They have discovered attempts to hide wrongdoing in this house. Do you believe those staples were used for house wrap?
Is with the OSB
Definitely remove all of that. Keep the distance a few feet away from any visible damage, maybe an even number like 8 feet from the corner. The current job looks quite rough.
When we bought our house, we ran into the same issues. The previous owners piled mulch and sand against the siding, causing water damage. It took me years to replace everything, including stripping off the siding and exposing the sheathing. I even had to replace some of the sill plates. Best of luck with your project.
There’s a 99% chance that the damage is worse than what your pictures show. The sill plates and more could be affected. Also, if there is no water barrier on the sheathing and just vinyl siding, you likely have more damaged OSB in other areas. You won’t know the full extent until you start investigating.
I’ve had “small repairs” turn into big projects after peeling back the first layer. Can’t even begin to imagine what they’ll uncover this time.
Has a lot of experience with this kind of work, especially when it comes to water damage or rot. Honestly, I wouldn’t recommend someone without much experience trying to tackle this.
I’ll approach fixing this in a very methodical way. It looks like it’s going to be part of a bigger project that will involve grading the entire back side.
Hey , are you wondering if there’s a basement or crawl space?
Yes, that’s correct about having the basement.
Also make sure to grab some PVC and fix up those French drains. I bet they’re full of mud and roots and not serving their purpose.
In my opinion, I wouldn’t choose OSB, even if it’s coated. If you’re going to do it, use CDX plywood or pressure-treated CDX. Just my personal choice.
Hey, don’t worry too much. Just open it up, remove the bad parts, replace with water resistant plywood, and wrap the house. I’ve seen worse. Back doors are usually a common issue. Outdoor doors need a roof to stay dry. Correct me if I’m wrong. $2.
At first glance, I didn’t realize these were two separate pictures. I thought the house was situated at the edge of a cliff.
Appreciate you bringing that up. I was totally lost trying to figure it out haha
My house is probably in a similar state. Previous owners accumulated years and years of mulch against a back section of the house. 🤦🏻♂️
Hey , my advice is definitely to avoid pulling back the siding 😂
Sending lots of positive vibes
I bet they used mulch to conceal the dry rot, I’d wager!!
Looks like Tracy agrees that the situation with Steve McCutchen is pretty clear here
Yeah, if you’re gonna do it, might as well do it correctly. I have a similar situation, previous owners decided to install an AC window unit, not in a window, they cut it directly into the wall, an exterior load-bearing wall, and just sawed the studs in half, no header or anything… OH JOY!
I enjoy restoring old sports cars. There’s a saying to multiply visible rust by 10 to estimate the extent of the issue. I recently applied this rule to termite and water damage during a renovation. It’s rewarding to have a sturdy structure again. Good luck!
Before you make any repairs, the main problem is that your house is sitting on the ground! You should dig out and re-grade that area. Building code mandates at least 8″ of space between soil and wood/siding. If you don’t address this first, the same issue will occur. After re-grading and uncovering the foundation, then you can tackle the structural issues. Best of luck
I appreciate the information. It’s reassuring to know I’m heading in the right direction.
Lower the soil level below the siding initially.
Hey Langston, that’s the idea but might have to be included in a bigger grading assignment…
The previous homeowner had concrete extending beyond the siding. I had to remove 14 inches of concrete, replace the mud plate, double rim joists, sister floor joists, door, and install new siding. You can do it!
I’m dealing with a similar problem. We had damage from a roof leak near the kitchen vent that led to rot and insect damage all the way to the sill plate. We put up a temporary support wall a few feet from the damaged area, removed the siding and damaged wood until we reached solid wood, then rebuilt with ground contact rated lumber. Since your house seems to be close to the ground, consider installing a French drain to quickly divert water away from the area.
If you’re a brand new homeowner, it’s a good idea to check how old the siding is. If the previous owner hid the issue, they could be responsible for fixing it.
Recently purchased it in September. Discovered a lot of water damage that wasn’t mentioned, so we had to tear down and renovate the whole kitchen