Have you experienced a smart switch causing your LED light to stay dimly lit even when turned off?
Asked by Ron Wade 
4 months ago
Last Updated: May 9, 2024
Hey there, I recently swapped out a basic light switch for a smart one, but now the light never fully turns off. Even when I switch it off, it stays on but in a dimmed state. I made sure the switch is compatible with LED bulbs and even tried different bulbs and another smart switch, but the issue persists. Have you ever run into something like this or do you have any ideas on what might be causing it?
Which brand of smart switch are you using?
Here
I just checked out their website, and I couldn’t find any switches with blue wires. I’m familiar with big brands like Lutron or Leviton here in the US, and typically light switches from those brands don’t have blue wires. Usually, blue wires are used for fan or motor switches. However, this could vary depending on the manufacturer and country. It’s crucial to have the model number of the switch. You can find it on the label of the switch.
That being said, the switch seems to have more wires than necessary for a single-pole light circuit. Could it be a 3-way circuit? Are you able to control the light from 2 switches? If not, you might have the wrong type of switch.
Yes, it looks like it’s a 3-way circuit. The blue wire is designated for that according to the documentation.
So the blue wire indicates a traveler?
Yes, you’re correct about it being a traveler.
That’s interesting! I’ve never seen a blue traveler before. By the way, the diagram only depicts the original switch. Does the diagram for the new smart switch indicate a need for the neutral (white) wire? Unfortunately, most smart switches do require a neutral wire. This can be problematic because, in the US at least, it’s quite common to encounter a switch box without a neutral wire. It’s only recently been mandated by code to have a neutral wire in all junction boxes. Additionally, if your house is older or you know that previous homeowners did electrical work, you may discover that they connected neutral to ground. This practice is essentially a makeshift solution to dealing with older electrical systems that lack a ground wire and is sometimes employed when a wire is shorted behind a wall. Regardless, it’s a violation of electrical codes here and likely in many other countries. The reason I mention this is that connecting a device that requires a neutral wire when the neutral is linked to ground can lead to some peculiar behavior. I faced this issue in my first house, a row home dating back to 1920. When I tried to install a Cooper smart switch in the master bedroom, the lights in the hallway were being turned on and off, while the bedroom lights remained dimly lit regardless of the switch position. So, it’s essential to ensure that your neutral isn’t connected to ground.
First things first, you should remove that electrical tape. The smart switch should have included wire nuts for you to use.
It’s a bit difficult to tell how the wires are connected due to the electrical tape, but it appears that the red wire from the switch is connected to the white wires?
It’s a bit tough to make out, but it’s attached to the black wire.
You can use electrical tape, just make sure it’s not the only thing holding the wires together. Combine with a wire nut, then add electrical tape.
I’ve noticed that sometimes the bulb may not be compatible with the switch, you might need to check if it’s halogen or something else.
Hey, did the switch happen to come with a wiring diagram? How about wire nuts?
I abandoned all dimmers. None of them worked well with LED lights. But now everything is fine.
There’s probably a mistake somewhere else. That’s what happened to me.
I noticed that there’s a black wire connected to a red one, and it’s hard to tell under the electrical tape, but it seems like there’s also a connection between a red wire and a white one… it doesn’t seem to be wired correctly.
It’s a bit tricky to spot, but it’s linked to the black wire.
It’s interesting how colors can be misleading. White wires are often assumed to be hot, even though they’re not always marked as such. It’s a common occurrence, which is why it’s important to be able to identify each wire regardless of its insulation color.
That’s a great insight, I appreciate it
Putting that back into the wall indicates that it’s time to take a break from this task. It’s a serious fire hazard that endangers everyone in your home. Please stop what you’re doing and either contact a professional or conduct a more thorough search for correct electrical wiring.
Might be a bit extreme, but you’re heading in the right direction.
Do you really think that’s the right thing to do, man?
If any of those taped connections become loose, it could cause an arc that might lead to a fire. It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say this is risky.
Was not taking any extreme risks when he did that wiring for his family.
How many generations does his entire family go back? 😆
Is the one who is still asleep in the house. Do you really think that was a job well done? I wouldn’t leave until it was done safely. Using tape to splice wires is just not safe.
Honestly, it seems like Collin is not the right person to be handling electrical work in a house.
Are you really a Harvard student?
I’ve come across smart switches that dim the circuit when you tap the bottom to the ‘off’ position. To completely turn it off, you have to hold it down.
Bulbs can often cause issues with dimmers, even though you mentioned trying multiple ones. The wiring seems to be mostly sorted out except for the electrical tape, so grab some nuts and then tape them. In terms of the remaining issues, I’ve encountered faulty smart switches that stay constantly on. The last one I replaced even heated up the switch body to almost burning temperatures within just a few minutes of operation. Lastly, there’s always a chance of a short to ground. I’m not an electrician, so I would definitely bring in a licensed professional to handle it for me. 😂
You could try running a standard switch to test the circuit’s proper operation. This might help narrow down whether it’s an electrical issue or a problem with the switch/bulb.
If I were given a dollar every time I heard this story. The simple solution is to find the power and the switch leg. Grab a multimeter, set it to squiggly AC, and locate the wire going up to the light. It seems like a two gang setup so not sure about the other switch, but you might have power out as well. Alternatively, you can contact an electrician, learn something, and probably spend a couple hundred bucks
Upgrade to smart bulbs and ditch dimmer switches completely. They can be controlled through your phone app or with Alexa or Google.
Seriously, why are there taped up wires on your wall 🤦♂️
Wait, is that electrical tape? It shouldn’t be like that 😂
Wow, that Switch isn’t looking too clever now 😂
You should reach out to a professional for help.
Why on earth do you have electrical tape inside your walls?! This is a serious fire hazard, remove all the tape immediately. Do not use tape to connect wires.
According to , it is important to not solely rely on tape. The recommended practice is to cap first and then use tape, although many only cap.
Suggests avoiding the use of tape to support your joints.
Hey , what’s the reason behind considering it good practice? The tape serves to keep the cap secure even when it’s moved around in the jbox, and it also prevents anything from coming into contact with a conductor. While it may not be required by the US code, placing tape over the cap is indeed a good practice.
Using tape to prevent water from entering the connection when the box fills is always a good idea.
Do you work as an electrician?
You’re right, I’m not . But I’ve read in various electrical reference manuals like Ugly’s and Dewalt that taping your joints is actually recommended.
Sure thing! Just to confirm, you’d like to keep the same text for ” yes” but rephrase it in a conversational tone, correct?
Looks like we’re running on empty with that car
Oh, that’s a true story Carl mmm hmm
It might end up having some smoke in it soon 😆
A dimmed light indicates a neutral return. It seems like you’ve connected a red wire to a white one at the switch. You wouldn’t need one of the wires from the switch unless it’s a three-way setup with two switches. But as everyone is emphasizing, make sure you’re certain! If not, electrical work is not something to experiment with.
I wanted to help explain, but try to find someone who is knowledgeable about electrical work. I understand you want to do it on your own, but it’s best to have a friend or family member guide you.
Invest in an hour of a professional electrician’s services. It’s worth the peace of mind. I enjoy DIY projects, but safety comes first.
‘t risk a fire just to cut costs!
Seems like a bit of a mess to me. What exactly is a smart switch?
Hey, did you know that a smart switch lets you control your lights using your phone, Alexa, or Google? Super convenient, right? You can even schedule when you want the lights on or off by simply telling them what to do.😎
I had a feeling it might be along those lines. Thanks for clarifying.
Have you checked if the FIXTURE is compatible? Remember, the switch is just one piece of the puzzle. It’s important to consider all factors.
So many mistakes 😂
Our LED bulbs have a similar issue – even when turned off, they still stay on. An electrician installed them so it seems like a common issue
I just finished reading the original post…
So, are you saying that the light never goes completely off? Is it always bright when turned on but dims when turned off? If that’s the case, it sounds like you need to adjust your low end trim. The manufacturer of the switch should provide instructions for doing this. LED lights tend to have this issue because they use very little power. Dimmer switches don’t fully turn off, so sometimes there’s enough power to slightly illuminate an LED bulb. If the switch is also rated for incandescent bulbs, try using a dimmable incandescent bulb – it should turn off completely since incandescent bulbs require more power to turn on. If your bulb is always on and not changing brightness, then there might be a wiring issue. Regardless, it’s crucial to fix those connections properly because they pose a serious fire hazard. Always use wire nuts on all connections and never place electrical tape under a wire nut. If you use electrical tape, make sure it’s only to seal a properly capped connection, or to cover terminals on a standard switch/receptacle (not relevant in your case).
So basically, when I turn the light off, it’s still on but dimmer. And if I try a non-LED light, it doesn’t work. Strangely, when I take the light bulb out, the light on the switch is off and it seems like there’s no electricity in the switch.
It’s a bit tricky to figure out what’s happening without more details about the switch you’re using.
LED light switches come in two types: main voltage and low voltage. Main voltage switches work like traditional dumb switches, using full voltage from your panel (typically 110v in the US). Low voltage switches use a transformer to reduce the main voltage to around 24V. It’s important not to mix these two types on the same circuit. You should stick to either all main voltage switches or all low voltage switches. I’ve been assuming you’re using main voltage switches, as they’re more common, at least in the US. But if you’re having issues with incandescent bulbs, it’s possible that there’s a low voltage switch in the mix. Or you might have a main voltage switch that isn’t compatible with incandescent bulbs for some reason. This information should be in the product specifications.
The other factor to consider is the second switch in your circuit. You haven’t mentioned what type of switch is being used there. I can’t speak for every brand, but many popular smart switches like Lutron Caseta (which I use) require both switches in a circuit to be smart switches. Mixing smart and dumb switches usually doesn’t work. Different manufacturers have different approaches to this, with some having a master/slave setup and others, like Lutron Caseta, replacing the second switch with a battery-powered remote to create a single-pole lighting circuit. So, knowing what kind of switch you have for the second one is essential.
Regarding the indicator light turning off when there’s no bulb, that’s to be expected. The bulb completes the circuit, so removing it breaks the circuit. The switch could only have power without a bulb if it’s directly connected to the panel with a neutral wire as the return.
I’m not sure what the problem is, but a helpful tip could be to consider using Wago connectors instead of wire nuts. They are smaller and easier to fit into a crowded box full of wires. Just be sure to choose the right gauge for the Wago connectors (it seems like 12 or 14 gauge wire here).
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Electrical-Tools-Wire-Conduit-Tools-Wire-Connectors-Wire-Terminals/WAGO/N-5yc1vZbmcoZtyk
Incorrectly wired
Is so helpful
Make sure to carefully read through the wiring instructions.
Super useful
Ph Smith I’ve found that taking the time to read the instructions can make a big difference. If you can’t wire it following the instructions, maybe it’s best not to mess with it.
I heard it mentioned before, but that’s definitely a dangerous fire risk!
Dealing with electricity is not something to mess around with, it’s best to call a professional.
You know, it’s surprising how many folks underestimate the dangers of DIY wiring. I mean, you’re basically putting your home and loved ones at risk. 😂
I couldn’t agree more 🙂
No matter what, if your light bulb is in a ceiling fan that’s controlled by a remote, it won’t function properly.
You should consider using a sniffer to thoroughly examine your wiring. Unfortunately, we are unable to assist with that here.
I have a different opinion, “sniffer” stickers can be unreliable. It’s important to use a meter and if someone doesn’t know how to use it, it shows they may not have the expertise in home electrical work
It would be a good idea to purchase some wire nuts instead of risking a fire hazard in the future.
🔥 burnin’ down the house! 🔥
Hey, you guys aren’t very helpful. If you can lend a hand, please go ahead and do so. If not, just stop. I called an electrician and they’re asking for $500 to replace 2 GFI switches, this is why people seek assistance.