Have any experienced tile contractors encountered linoleum on a slab foundation – clean and thinset or scrape and prep before tiling?
Asked by Okan Türkdoğan 
2 months ago
Last Updated: October 27, 2024
I’m planning on tiling my kitchen and bathroom. The current flooring is linoleum on a slab foundation. I heard one contractor suggest just cleaning the surface really well and then tiling directly on top of the linoleum. But I’m leaning towards removing the linoleum, prepping the concrete, and then tiling. Any experienced tile installers out there who have dealt with this situation before?
Take it out, clean and level the surface, and then lay down the new tile.
Yeah, it’s a bad idea to tile over linoleum.
As long as the vinyl is glued down properly, you can tile over it. Just be sure to use the right kind of unmodified thinset.
You actually need cement board before tiling, so you might as well remove the vinyl, prepare the floor properly, and use the concrete slab as a base for the installation.
Isn’t here on concrete
Doesn’t have to use cement backerboard on a concrete slab.
That’s being lazy. It’s always best to remove the flooring down to the concrete when putting in a new floor.
I work in water damage restoration and we frequently come across nice tile floors that have to be ripped out after a flood because there’s wet vinyl flooring underneath instead of thinset adhered to concrete, which is waterproof and won’t be an issue if it gets wet.
Vinyl has a paper backing and can develop mold if it gets wet. This can lead to the tile above it failing once it gets wet
I have Linoleum flooring in my bathroom that was left by the previous owner. I’m having trouble removing all the old adhesive because it’s really hard, and now there are high spots all over the floor. I was thinking of putting in laminate flooring instead, but I’m worried about the uneven floor caused by the old adhesive. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
Hey Nathan! There are a variety of methods for removing laminate flooring, some that are easier but more expensive, and others that are cheaper but more challenging. You can also consider leveling the existing flooring. What are you thinking of doing?
You really shouldn’t tile over vinyl flooring, even if it’s glued down securely!
I have been laying tile since I was young, starting with my father and his father before him. I mention this to emphasize that is absolutely right! Vinyl can function as an effective slip sheet and protect your tile and grout from foundation cracks, as long as it is securely attached. Make sure to remove any wax residue you see. I personally include acrylic Admix in my thinset for stronger bonding. This is especially important when working with porcelain tiles for proper adhesion.
Today, I learned something new. Thank you, !
What should we do if there are areas that aren’t adhered really well?
Used a razor knife or a wall or floor scraper to remove anything loose.
Absolutely right. A well-adhered sheet flooring makes for an excellent uncoupling substrate.
If you decide to remove the vinyl, it’s recommended to apply an uncoupling membrane over the concrete. If the vinyl is well-adhered to the floor, it can also serve as an uncoupling membrane.
Right on
If the current flooring is securely glued down, there’s no need to remove it. Ceramic tile can be installed directly on top without any problems. I did this in one of my rental properties over 20 years ago and haven’t had any issues since. In fact, removing it will only make more work for the tile installer, and you’ll end up paying for that extra work. Trust your tile installer and leave it as is.
Not true, you must have never dealt with water damage or a flood before. If you have, then there could be mold under that tile. It might require some effort, but it’s best to remove the floor. While it may hold up structurally, if there is a water leak, you will need to replace the tile.
I didn’t see any mention of water in the original post. If the current flooring is securely glued to the concrete slab, it’s unlikely that there is water underneath. In the case of any water damage, there would normally be bubbles and it would have been mentioned. Still, you can just remove the part that isn’t sticking well and tile over it after smoothing out the edges of the part that is still secure. Any experienced tile installer would be aware of this.
It is true that water damage was not mentioned. It is not something that crosses everyone’s mind. Your suggestion could potentially lead to costly issues in the future. Water can still seep under the edges of the thin set despite your viewpoint.
What is inaccurate about what he said? Additionally, water damage is typically covered by Homeowners Insurance! I have been laying tile for over 40 years and using vinyl flooring as a slip sheet works well. I have never had any complaints and I offer warranties for all my projects as long as the original owner and terms are specified in the contract/estimate. 🤷♂️
Everyone has their own preferences.
I highly doubt you’ve ever had to deal with that situation. As I mentioned before, it’s totally fine to put tile over vinyl both structurally and aesthetically. But what about if the vinyl gets wet underneath?
Sure, it’s covered by insurance, but I’ve seen insurance adjusters argue that they won’t pay for a new tile floor if it was installed incorrectly. It’s always a big hassle, but I always manage to get it covered. Still, it really shouldn’t be done that way and there’s always a risk of denial.
Claiming that putting tile over vinyl is the best option is pretty funny, by the way. It sounds like you’re just being lazy and don’t want to put in a few hours to properly prepare the floor. Unfortunately, there’s no way around that.
Spencer, I get what you’re saying – if there’s that much water, there could be some serious problems. It might mean cutting out the drywall and even removing cabinets. Insurance will probably cover a new floor if it’s tiled up to the toe kick. It’s like the precaution of hanging a suspended ceiling when finishing a basement in case there’s a leak upstairs.
Is completely incorrect. In most cases, tile floors do not need to be replaced in water damage situations as long as they are on concrete and the tiles are not coming loose. The same applies to cabinets – they usually do not need to be removed in clean water damage situations unless there is mold present or a wet insulated wall behind them. Drywall also typically does not need to be cut unless there is wet insulation inside. The comparison regarding the basement was confusing – if a leak upstairs causes the basement ceiling to get wet, it can usually be dried in place with a few ceiling holes. The important point is that wet vinyl under a tile floor can trap moisture and lead to mold on the paper backing.
I have plenty of experience removing floors and demoing kitchens, tubs, showers, and more. I’ve gained knowledge from my material vendors and tested different processes and products – it completely changed my perspective! I’m not trying to convince you of anything, just sharing my journey. If it sounds unbelievable, it’s just leading me to success at the bank.
Are you suggesting that tiling over vinyl flooring is a better option than tearing it up to install on the slab?
Just to clarify, I’m saying you don’t need to remove the vinyl – it can work as a slip sheet too! 🤦🏻 There’s always something new to learn, no matter your age.
That’s what we call an analogy! Clients often ask me whether they should go for a suspended ceiling or sheetrock in their basement in case of a leak. Honestly, it doesn’t make sense. If water seeps into drywall, even for a short time, it should be cut and replaced without question. Using a blower may dry the paper, but once the gypsum is wet, there’s a risk of mold. And when it comes to cabinets, if they have MDF or pressed board sides, water damage is inevitable and any knowledgeable homeowner would opt for replacements. Plus, toe kicks on cabinets vary in depth from one manufacturer to another. So if your new cabinets have a deeper toe kick than the old ones, the tile won’t reach properly, meaning the floors would need to be replaced, regardless of whether it’s a grey or black water leak.
Hey Tim! Just wanted to clarify that as a restorer with 13 years of experience and my own business training technicians, I have to disagree with what you’re saying. Typically, when there’s a leak or flood, it’s not necessary to completely gut a whole house. Drywall, cabinets, framing, and some floors can usually be dried in place with minimal demolition. Usually, all that needs to be removed are the baseboards and toe kicks at a minimum. My main goal is to either prevent mold growth or remove it if it’s already there. Mold can’t grow on drywall, cabinets, or any material if there’s enough airflow. As long as you start drying things within 72 hours, it’s usually possible to salvage most of it with minimal demolition. The idea that wet drywall must be removed is actually not supported by data. In reality, drywall that’s dried promptly can even end up stronger than before.
Do you think an unmodified thinset with the acrylic admix is still the best choice for the 12 x 24 porcelain tile by ?
Listen to your tile guy, okay? The larger the tiles, the more important it is that the surface is flat. Even if it’s not perfectly level, it still needs to be flat. A surface that’s uneven or has bumps and dips will need a thicker layer of thinset. This could result in tiles breaking, coming loose, or sounding hollow. If your tile guy suggested keeping the current flooring, then go with that. Another tip is that if there’s a bump in the floor, your tile guy can sand it down to make it level for the tile to lay flat.
I did the same with one of my rental’s kitchen floors, and haven’t had any issues in over 20 years.
Best of luck lifting it! We’ve spent weeks trying to get rid of the old linoleum and we’re still not done.
This is the situation we’re facing 🫤
Hey DeeLyn Myers, when it comes to Pool, this is the type of adhesion you should focus on and really understand. Thank you.
When you’re installing over linoleum, make sure to use a minimum 1/2 trowel to create a 1/2 mortar bed.
For , I have 12×24 tile, so I’ll need a 1/2×1/2 as well.
If the vinyl is still in good shape, it can serve as a good moisture barrier for the tile. This is a very popular choice.
To do it correctly means securing it firmly in place.
Just watch out for creating a raised edge in front that could trap your appliances.
The dishwasher especially needs to be able to move freely under the countertop.
Oh yeah, there’s tile under my dishwasher.
The contractor suggested just tiling over it. We followed their advice and haven’t experienced any issues in over 20 years. We’ve even accidentally dropped pots and pans without cracking the tile 😅
Vinyl creates a strong membrane. If it’s properly adhered, just keep it as is. Also, it could contain asbestos, so it’s best to cover it for your health.
I redid my bath and kitchen, and that’s all I did. It’s been 7 years, and it’s still in great condition.
Removing the vinyl has no negative aspects whatsoever.
I really don’t feel like getting into a debate with you, but there are definitely some potential issues that could come up.
That’s understandable.
I’ve witnessed them tiling over linoleum before. I’m skeptical about its durability because linoleum is not sturdy and tile is rigid.
So, when your linoleum is on a concrete slab, there shouldn’t be any issues. The key is to make sure the linoleum is securely glued down. Otherwise, you might end up with hollow spots. Mine is definitely glued down securely.
No problem at all, I’ll just skip that task.