First-timer seeking advice: Can I patch the ceiling without taking it down to add insulation for my wife’s long-awaited fix?
Asked by Sonia Arevalo 
1 month ago
Last Updated: October 23, 2024
Hey everybody, I’m new here and grateful for being welcomed into the group. I usually like to tackle projects on my own, but I have to admit I’m feeling a bit nervous about this one. It’s going to be my most ambitious project yet and I could really use some guidance on where to begin. I’ve been wanting to fix this for my wife for a while now. It looks like there’s no insulation in that area, so I’m not sure if I can simply cut and patch it or if I need to take down the whole ceiling. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance!
Contact a professional for assistance.
I suggest beginning by completely removing all damaged drywall and cutting back to good drywall so you have a solid surface to work on. Next, measure your opening and cut out new 1/2″ drywall to match. If possible, use the side of the drywall without the beveled edge to ensure a better finish. If you don’t hit a roof truss or rafter, use a piece of leftover trim or 1×6 behind the seam for support. Once hung, tape joints with flex tape to avoid overlapping corners which can create issues with finishing. Follow up with mudding, sanding, and painting for a good as new look. Check out YouTube for helpful techniques. Good luck!
It appears someone went through the attic, albeit slightly! Replicating the thickness of the plaster and lath might be trickier than expected. Consider seeking assistance from someone knowledgeable in this area or hiring a professional to ensure it’s repaired correctly.
You have the option to remove it and fix it, but ensure the replacement matches the ceiling level for easier taping.
Cut away the damaged section, following the ceiling joist. Seems like the plaster is old, so you’ll have to add shims for the thinner new drywall. Install 1/4″ lattice strips on the joists before adding the new drywall. This will make the surface even. After that, apply tape and mud. You can find tutorials on YouTube for reference.
This repair involves more than just fixing the plaster or drywall. There seems to be significant moisture damage that needs to be addressed before replacing any parts of the ceiling or wall.
It looks like the window molding, red wall, and ceiling joists are all showing signs of moisture damage. It seems like moisture intrusion is the main issue here.
If the plaster is old and attached to wood lath strips, I would recommend removing it all and replacing it with drywall. Over time, these ceilings tend to sag and crack due to the effects of gravity and aging.
Just remove as much as you can. Identify the location of all your joists and mark them at the top of the wall on both sides. Then, cover the entire area with Sheetrock. Avoid the hassle of removing all the plaster and lath. Make sure the screws you use are long enough. Consider renting a Sheetrock lift to simplify the process. Once you have a few screws in place, draw chalk lines connecting the marks you made for the joist locations on each end and proceed with securing the Sheetrock.
Said the same thing. That’s exactly what I did, except I added 1″ foam board insulation before installing the new drywall.
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Even better choice. What type of screws did you end up using ???
2-1/2″ drywall screws.
For what it’s worth, a ceiling light fixture can be converted into a wall sconce.
It might be a good idea to get a better look at the area. Is the plaster in good condition elsewhere? If it is, then it can be fixed. This response also provides other helpful advice. First, check for any signs of dampness or mold. If you find any, it indicates more than just a plaster repair is needed. If the area is okay, you can start by removing any unsound plaster within a specific square area. When removing old plaster, it can affect the surrounding plaster, which is why I highly recommend using an oscillating saw with a plaster or grout blade. Draw a square on the ceiling, cut along that line just through the plaster, and remove it. You may need to make additional cuts later, but this initial step will help you evaluate the situation. The goal is to cut back to the middle of a joist. At right angles to the joists, cut to where the plaster is undamaged. Consider searching for “plaster washers” as they are specifically designed to secure old plaster. These can be attached to wood lath if necessary. Once the plaster is cut back to the middle of a joist, use a wood blade on the oscillating saw to remove the lath along the same line. As others have noted, achieving a seamless repair to match the existing ceiling can be quite challenging. Instead of exploring multiple options, it would be helpful to know the total thickness we are dealing with. As the damage extends to the wall, your cut should extend all the way to the wall line.
Years!
I totally get why you might feel intimidated! There’s probably moisture damage behind this, which could lead to mold and structural problems. Hopefully, your wife would understand the need to bring in a professional. If it were me, I would conduct some initial investigation (or contact my insurance first to check if they could assist). I wouldn’t just cover it up cosmetically without evaluating the extent of the damage. You may want to seek a professional opinion instead of going for a quick fix.
You have the option to cut and patch. It might require some trial and error to make sure the surfaces match up correctly. Just make sure to fix whatever caused the problem in the first place. It seems like a leak weakened the ceiling and eventually caused it to fall. The corner of the wall also appears to be damaged. I had a section of plaster that got wet. It didn’t fall, but the mold on the back spread out due to water damage. I ended up replacing the entire wall, and while doing so, I had to rip apart and rebuild the entire hallway.
It all depends on the extent of the damage. Begin by cutting beyond the damaged section. You should be able to repair it.