Could someone provide a step-by-step guide for installing a new door in a wall where there was none before?
Asked by Ahmet Okur 
7 months ago
Last Updated: May 28, 2024
I’m thinking about putting a door in this spot where there’s never been one before. I’ve tried looking up how to do it, but all I can find is how to replace a door. I must be searching for the wrong thing! It seems simple enough, but could someone guide me through the process? Thanks a bunch!
You have the option to purchase a door, hang it in place, and then route out spaces for the hinges and strike plate. Make sure to have the center molding for the door to rest on when closed. Another alternative is to buy a prehung door, remove the trim from the current walkway, shim it, install the door, and then add new trim.
Lower door jamb
To ensure the hinges align with the door and frame, you should measure and consider using template kits for router assistance
Placing a barn door there would be a simpler option
Your current setup features a “cased opening,” which should be helpful in finding more information. 🙂
If you’re unsure about the width, consider buying a pre-hung door for that frame. You can remove the cased opening currently there and then install the new pre-hung door. Another option is to use a barn door on a slide, which covers the opening without the need for demo. However, this is dependent on the available wall space, as the barn door requires the same amount of wall space when open.
The cafe hinge allows the door to swing both ways and is fairly easy to install.
If you search for “how to convert a cased opening to a door”, you will find some helpful step-by-step tutorials.
Have you considered using a noren curtain instead?
Can you tell me the exact shade of green paint used?
Works at Sherwin Williams and loves the color Evergreen Fog.
Take off the trim.
Measure the space.
Choose a pre-hung door pack that’s slightly smaller. You could go bigger, but it’ll be more work.
Put up the door.
Add the trim.
Relax with a glass of wine.
More information coming soon…
Remove the trim with a “slim jim” tool, being careful not to damage the wall. Some nails will remain in the wall, while others will come out with the wood. To remove nails in the wall, use a claw hammer and a block of wood to protect the sheet rock. For nails in the wood trim, pull them through the back with a pair of pliers. Leave the holes as they are for now.
Dikes are perfect for removing nails and staples. Just make sure to use a cheap pair, not your good electrical ones.
This is my go-to for shims, cedar undercourse.
You’ve got the door and the entrance is ready. DO NOT take off any straps, bands, or boards from the sides of the new door!
Check the bottom. The “legs” are likely way too long. This will create a large gap under your door. You’ll need to trim them to a reasonable length. Cut them to be 1/2″ – 3/4″ longer than the door.
Next, grab some scrap 1×2 (3 or 4 will work too).
Cut one to fit across the doorway.
Trim 2 others to about 18″ in length.
Start by pre-drilling and attaching the long piece across the doorway. Pick a spot where it won’t interfere with any door components, such as hinges.
Secure the other pieces across the upper corners.
Make sure to drive the screws less than 2″ into the wall so that the trim can hide the holes.
Now, gather 2 people, a 4′ level, a 2′ level, a hammer, a sheetrock knife (with a sharp blade), and some 8p finish nails.
Assign one person to each side, ensuring they have a supply of shims.
If desired, precut shims to roughly the same width by scoring and snapping them. Length is not critical at this point.
Place the door into the opening.
Center the door within the frame.
Position it against the 1×2 nailers.
NOTE: One side will display more jam. Let the more skilled nailer handle that side for better results.
Begin at the bottom.
Each person should take a shim and insert it between the door and the stud. The pointed side should face inwards. (Note: when stacked, the shims create a square block)
Repeat the process on the opposite side. Avoid applying excessive force. Adjust the shims as needed to achieve proper door alignment.
Use a 2′ level on the top jam.
Is it level?
Yes? Great.
No? Insert shims from both sides under the lower edge until it is level.
Utilize a 4′ level to check for plumb. Adjust if necessary due to wall irregularities. Place the level against the narrow jam edge facing the room. If it’s off, make slight adjustments at the top and bottom to align it vertically.
Once satisfied with the alignment, drive two 8p nails through the jam, shims, and into the stud. Do not fully sink the nails! Leave them protruding about 1/8″ for now.
Hold a shim near the nail to prevent damage to the jam.
Repeat the process on the other side.
Repeat the steps halfway up and then near the top.
Remove the straps from the door and 1×2 nailers.
Test the door to ensure proper functioning.
Once confirmed, drive the nails flush and use a nail set to countersink them. Trim any excess shims with a sheetrock knife by scoring and snapping them.
For countersinking, consider leaving the nails flush for stain applications and countersinking for paint. This prevents wood filler from affecting the stain and creating visible marks on the wood surface.
Next, install your trim.
Consider reusing the old trim or take it to the store to find a match.
You can purchase a door “pack” or individual lengths. Measure beforehand to ensure you have enough to cover the area. Remember to measure past the corners by a few inches.
A miter saw is necessary for precise cuts. While a miter box is an option, it can be messy. Investing in a quality miter saw is recommended.
Consider using a combination of nails and a nail gun for installation. A BRAD Nailer can be very helpful in achieving a seamless finish.
Repeat the process on the other side as well. You may need to adjust the length of the trim pieces.
Measure twice, cut once. Also, check the angle on the saw before making cuts.
If the door opening is too wide, you might need to “pack it out” by adding material to one or both sides to close up the gap enough for the door to fit snugly and be secured.
You can use 3/4″ pine (also known as 1×4 or 1×6). A 1×4 will line up nicely with a 2×4.
If your trim will hide it, you can cut a 1×6 to the width of the entire wall (2×4 + 1/2″ sheetrock on both sides). This is easier than trying to screw and mud a small piece of drywall. Plywood is another option, available in various thicknesses.
If needed, opt for a wider door casing to cover everything up.
If it’s too narrow, you may have to perform some intricate surgery or open up the wall and then patch the drywall. Confirm if that’s the case. This is a more complex process as it often involves electrical work and perhaps even adjusting a header.
Have you considered ordering a door slab or prehung to fit the specific width of your opening?
Remove the trim and frame, Get a prehung door, fit it in and you might even be able to reuse the casing
In my neighborhood we’ve got this company called “Brosco”. I bet there’s a door and window company near you too.
Go ahead and order an interior grade french door. These doors are lighter, making it easier to install on your current door frame. No need to make mortise cuts for locks, just use a barrel catch at the top of the door.
Make sure to get a prehung door that fits the opening dimensions.
I want to express my gratitude for all the info. I gained so much knowledge. I was thinking of purchasing an antique French door and installing it…but now I may need to reconsider…
This is too complicated. Just nail on some door stop molding and take the opening measurements to a lumberyard for a custom door. The trickiest part is cutting out the hinges – you can either route them or use a hammer & chisel.
I was considering doing this. Do you think the casing and the structure behind it can support a door without any doubts?
If you gently remove a piece of the molding on the side with the hinge, I believe you’ll discover a stud.
This video covers pretty much everything, except how to install door stops. Check it out here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noancs9-MX8.