Could a cracked foundation be causing water to seep into the basement through the egress windows during heavy rain, and do you have any DIY tips or advice for addressing this issue before considering professional help?
Asked by Vanesa Ruiz 
6 months ago
Last Updated: June 21, 2024
Update: So, it looks like we’ve got some water coming in from the window. The ground isn’t deep enough around the egress windows. 🙄
We’re about to finish the basement, but we had some heavy rain last week and now it seems like water is getting in somehow. I can’t quite figure out where it’s coming from. Could it be a crack at the base of the foundation letting moisture through the ground? Has anyone else dealt with this? Any tips? We’re open to hiring a professional if necessary, but we’re trying to do most of the basement work ourselves!
Do you happen to own a sump pump?
It definitely seems like the water is coming from the foundation wall or maybe through the window frame. The first step to fixing it is figuring out the root cause. I wouldn’t consider the job done until this is resolved. Is there a build-up of water outside that window? Are your eaves troughs effectively directing water away from your home? It may be necessary to dig down and seal your foundation from the outside, but it’s important to identify the source of the leak first. You have a window well, which is good, but do you notice any water pooling there? Remember, water always finds the easiest way in.
Are there drains in the bottom of the well that carry water away from the house?
And why isn’t there a moisture barrier between the studs and the wall/floor?
Looks like that wall is below ground level and the window is intended as an emergency exit. Water might be entering through the joint between the wall and the floor, rather than from the wall itself. Installing a perimeter drain that leads to a sump pit could be a good solution. It’s also important to check the outdoor area, ensuring that gutters direct water away from the house and that the ground is sloped away from the house.
It may not seem like a lot of water, but by waterproofing the external joint, cleaning out the gutters, and making sure the water is directed away from that spot, you should be able to fix the issue.
Can you tell me what is causing the black line on the wall?
Is using flexseal?
Identified a water path indicating where the water is entering that they mysteriously ‘can’t seem to locate’..
Actually, it’s pretty much just flex seal.
Kevin s noticed the water creeping up the wall right below the flex seal. It seems flex seal is not a cure-all after all.
Of course, they placed a seal there assuming it would solve everything… but clearly, it didn’t.
It’s worth noting that water is not black and there was no mention of a universal solution.
Didn’t actually claim to have done it or suggested it as a solution. She’s just seeking advice.
You might notice a lot of drip lines below that window on the wall, indicating that the source could be the window itself. It’s possible that the window is not sealed properly. Check if there is gravel below the window and assess how much rainwater is pooling in the egress. The water seems to be finding its way through somewhere. (I am currently in the process of fully waterproofing my basement wall).
Hey, , the water isn’t seeping in from the window bottoms but from the bottom of the seal plate on the wall. The window itself is dry. It’s more of a seal plate issue than a window problem.
Hey, should consider waterproofing the exterior.
I agree with your assessment
Maybe the solution could be on the opposite side: do you have a French drain installed? Is your yard sloped correctly? It’s also recommended to have etafoam underneath your 2×4 framing.
If you’re missing drain tile, it might be a good idea to have some installed.
Is the drain in your window well clogged? You might want to check on that.
Have you noticed any water coming in from behind the framing through the foundation? It’s best to excavate and waterproof the exterior.
You know that water is seeping in from the bottom of the window? Just hop into the well and seal the window around its frame.
To prevent water infiltration, apply three coats of waterproofing material to the exterior where the wall meets the foundation. I had to take the same approach with my exterior walls.
Definitely looks like the insulation under the window has some blackened areas, which could indicate mold or water seepage. The positive side is that addressing the window is easier than dealing with the floor or wall.
The water is seeping in from the buildup in the rock basket outside the window and entering through the window. Consider purchasing a cover for the top of the egress hole. Ensure it directs water away from the house. Using heavy mil plastic around the edge of the metal egress hole with proper drainage will solve the issue. Add rocks on top of the plastic to secure it in place. Make sure the water flows away from the house for about 6-10 feet to keep the house dry.
Once you’ve fixed the water leak, consider taking down the framing and adding 2” foamular foam board against the cement walls before reinstalling the framing. This will keep the framing and insulation from touching the cold walls and improve the r-value. You can find helpful videos on YouTube.
You can also choose to fill the space with spray foam insulation, which will prevent condensation from forming on the cement surface.
Totally agree with you, . If you can afford it, go with spray foam. If not, foam board is a good alternative. Good choice.
My parents went through something similar. There was a crack in the wall, and they had to excavate the window well and get it resealed.
It looks like the water is entering around the window. Is the window located above ground level? Make sure to inspect the window for any gaps and ensure that it is tightly sealed.
It seems like ‘ location is below ground. I believe I can spot the basement egress ladder outside the window.
Could have possibly left or taken a walkout? Some work has been completed and there is a new window. The black line below the window is confusing, but there are no signs of previous water damage, so something must have changed.
Have you considered using steel framing for your finished basement?
Is not worth it for a regular home because it is overpriced and there is no valid reason for it.
Just and only the new text: is not worth it for a typical home because it is overpriced and there is no good reason for it.
I finished my 1,100 sq/ft basement and the framing cost was about 30% more. The good thing is that if the basement floods, I can just remove the Sheetrock and keep the framing intact. I also used closed-cell foam insulation. It’s all about sticking to your budget and remembering that sometimes you have to pay more upfront to avoid regret later on.
You can keep the wood framing when it floods, just make sure to treat it if needed. Water touching the wood for a couple of days won’t cause damage.
So, are you telling me that the difference was nearly 50% higher lol on top of the already high prices for new builds? That’s not feasible for some people.
What I mean is that the price for steel framing at the building supplier was 30% higher. Living in NYC near the water, I knew that Hurricane Sandy 2.0 could hit again at any time. As a DIYer, working with steel is much easier than wood!
The foundation of your framing in a basement needs to be treated… When I’ve had flooded basements, all I’ve ever had to do was replace insulation and drywall. It was a pretty simple fix. I have to say, I disagree with the idea that metal framing is easier than wood. I can finish a whole basement very quickly using wood… and the cost difference for wiring wood studs versus metal is also a factor. This is just how I, as a DIY’er, operate…
It’s great that everyone is paying attention to the framing. I recently decided to add an in-law apartment in my basement which used to occasionally flood. I had an interior waterproofing system installed. It consists of a French drain with plastic sheeting that lines the walls of the foundation and directs water into the system. Then you can build on top of it. This summer has brought heavy rain almost every week… and thanks to the system, everything has remained dry!
Moisture can cause ‘s steel stud plate to rust.
It definitely seems like it’s originating from the window. I’m guessing the drainage tile is blocked at the base of the egress window. It probably just needs to be cleaned out.
Window
If the window insulation is wet, it’s likely a window issue. If it’s dry, then it could be a drainage problem where the basement floor meets the wall.
This is incredibly useful. I appreciate it!
Haha, the flex seal isn’t a product of ours 😂😂😂😂😂😂 we are uncertain if the water is entering from the window or another source but we will investigate further. Appreciate everyone’s suggestions and humorous comments!
Is sure that the reason you found that the area was sprayed with flex seal is because it was done intentionally.
Oh, for sure! It’s frustrating because we mentioned it before purchasing the property and even paid for an inspection, yet we keep encountering issues that need fixing 🙃
There are water stains on the foundation wall at the bottom right of the window, all the way down to the floor. As others have pointed out, you should excavate around the egress to check if there’s any tiling extending from it. If there is, it might be clogged. If not, consider installing some and ensuring proper drainage away from the house. It’s surprising that an inspector missed such obvious water damage. Ugghhhh. Good luck with figuring it out.
Did you get a chance to see the water damage caused by the kitchen faucet we had to replace? The plumbing and the entire faucet had to be removed! 😖
Hey , have you reached out to the inspector to inquire how all of this was overlooked? Sometimes becoming an inspector doesn’t require much effort in certain areas.
They really did not provide much help 😒
If this is going to be quite expensive to repair, you could consider taking legal action against the inspector or even the previous homeowner for not mentioning the issue.
Let’s keep our fingers crossed that it’s not as bad as we think!
Hey , I really hope not! 🙏🏻
Hey , if this wasn’t in the report, you should be able to get a refund for the inspection cost from the company.
There seems to be a lot of interest in this issue. It appears that water might be seeping in where the foundation meets the wall, causing pooling. To identify the source of the water, you’ll need to investigate further. It’s challenging to determine with the bottom plate blocking the view 🙁 Perhaps the water is trickling down the wall near the black strip or behind one of the studs. If this is a recent occurrence, dry everything promptly and check if the water is originating from the floor or the wall. Then, locate the entry point along the wall. As mentioned by others, the issue might be related to the area around the window.
Why is the 2×4 at the bottom of the window frame damp?
The exit must be excavated down to the foundation and filled with rocks .. if there is a drain near the exit, make sure to clear it. If not, install a perforated drain tube with a drainage sock at the bottom of the exit area, connecting it to the drain tile ..
While it’s not confirmed that the water entered from this spot this time, it does raise suspicions. There are visible water stains indicating possible leakage issues.
Sometimes, water can seep under the floor and make its way through the seam between the floor and the wall. You may need to remove part of the wall bottom plate to investigate further. It seems likely that this is where the water is coming from.
Are you experiencing water buildup in the window well? Have you installed a cover and a drain at the bottom?
Gary, I noticed that the pool cover is not filling up with water.
Is appearing from where the wall and floor meet?
Okay, there tends to be a gap near the footer in most cases. If the current drainage system and sump pump are failing to drain the water, extensive digging will likely be necessary. It’s not advisable to invest in finishing a basement until waterproofing is completely effective, and it’s also recommended to have a backup sump pump in place before finishing the basement.
I agree with Tony. I had a similar experience where the float for the sump pump wasn’t working properly and the pump ran continuously for hours.
So it seems like you might need to consider whether you can’t repair the current drainage tile and sump pump to eliminate this water. If not, the solution may involve clearing a path next to the basement wall by removing the entire 2×4 wall. Then, cutting a one-foot section of concrete around the perimeter leading to the sump pump, which should be close by. After that, dig down about 18 inches, install new drainage tile (perforated pipe), and extend it all the way to the sump pump. Finally, cover the pipe with gravel and pour fresh concrete. This should permanently solve the problem.
My guess would be the window sill
It appears that someone attempted to seal an old leak with black sealer. You might want to consider using foundation paint sealer on the foundation behind the studs to test for water penetration before insulating and drywalling.
I’d recommend hiring a professional to take care of the drywall and carpeting to avoid the risk of having to redo it all if your DIY fix doesn’t work.
That’s probably from the cold joint. You should consider getting some grout injections at the angle change
It might just be condensation
Perhaps starting from where it’s already painted black… Either way, consider getting a ring camera or some motion device for when it rains, so you can pinpoint exactly where the water is coming from.
Seems like we just experienced the same thing, water seeping in between the wall and floor. Do you have a functional sump pump? We had a drainage system installed underground around the leaky part of the house and had a sump pump put in… now it’s dry.
Hey Elyse, just wanted to let you know that our garage is in need of a sump pump.
How well was this window installed? Is all the flashing properly sealed and installed? Have someone outside spray water from a hose at full pressure, moving it slowly around the edges of the window frame where it meets the wall, while you stand inside to check for water leaks. Start from the top, then both sides, and finally around the bottom of the window frame. You’re simulating heavy rain. If the window frame is leaking, seal it with caulk and tape, make sure there’s a window drip cap at the end and flash it. Then cover it with trim board. Opt for PVC trim boards as they require low maintenance and are resistant to rot. Caulk the edges where the trim meets the window frame and the wall. Except for the bottom trim piece under the window. Do not caulk that piece, in case water gets in behind or between the trim and window frame, leave the bottom open for any water to leak out. If the water isn’t coming in from around the window or the rough opening frame, there’s more investigation needed. It could be coming from the area where the black sealer was applied. Test it using the hose to identify the leak. Flood the area with water to see where it enters. If water is coming up from under the slab, it’s best to call a professional for drainage work. My guess is there’s a leak between the concrete and the rough framing this window sits in. Good luck.
Lol please remove the wood under the window. It would have been better to fill the gap with self-leveling material. Also, it seems like a crack was incorrectly sealed.
What is that black stuff? Flex seal spray!……
I noticed that right away. I even have a photo with that exact spot highlighted. 😃
It’s leaking in here. You can observe the moisture lines near the walls and then it forms puddles.
What’s the view outside the window?
Is there a 4-inch drain tile in the window well? Did they use foam between the concrete and rough framework? Did they backfill the window well with gravel?
This was the situation with my parent’s egress installation earlier this year. They had to get the guy to remove it and install it again.
Originating from the black line
The egress doesn’t have adequate drainage
Here’s a simple solution: excavate around the metal, remove it, dig deeper than its current position, fill with 4” of sand followed by 6-8” of rock, reinsert the metal, and backfill. Issue resolved!
Makes it seem simple, but in reality, it’s more complex than it appears 🫠🫠🫠
Without a doubt. We’ve actually tried it with our own.
That could be effective in many cases, but it really hinges on the soil’s drainage and the intensity of the rainfall. You’ll definitely need a drain beneath the window well.
It’s a smart idea to wait a couple of years before finishing the interior walls of your basement to ensure it stays dry. Just a heads up, water can seep through the floor even without visible cracks. I heard about a house in my neighborhood that had to tear down a big addition and rebuild it due to water issues. Also, keep in mind the stack effect can cause air, including toxic mold spores, to move up through your house, so mold in the basement can affect the main level too. I know a family member whose bone-dry basement suddenly had a surprise water issue after 20 years. You never know when something might go wrong… If I were finishing a basement, I’d leave a gap between the exterior walls and new walls, create a raised floor with a drainage channel, use inorganic materials, and build in pieces that can be easily disassembled for repairs. If it doesn’t dry out within 48 hours, mold can become a problem, especially with
Make sure the outside of the foundation is properly sealed and a 4” drain is correctly installed around the perimeter leading out to a stone filled pit before starting any interior work. Prevent water from entering the wall.
#1 Have you checked for weeping tile on the exterior? If not, consider installing it either inside or outside. #2 Are there any cracks in the exterior concrete wall? If yes, you can use a product called Xypex to seal them. Clean the crack with a wire wheel on a grinder or drill, then apply Xypex. It will attract to water and crystallize to stop the leak. #3 If water is coming in at a tie hole, consider using a product like water plug. Mix it like putty and apply it to the tie hole. Similar to Xypex, it attracts to water and seals the hole. #4 If you have exterior weeping tile, make sure you also have vertical weeping tile down to the horizontal weeping tile. If not, dig a hole with a post hole auger and install a vertical weeping tile.
Planting grass right up to the edge of your foundation can be helpful. Ensure gutters are clear and downspouts are directing water away from the area. Avoid placing gravel next to the foundation as it allows rain to seep down. It’s possible there is a blockage in the basement drainage system, so connecting to it may not be a simple solution. Another option is to bury a sump pump at the bottom of your window well.