Can you provide feedback on my plan to address water issues in a poorly graded area despite the challenges I have faced with the contractor?
I have made some progress on the water issue in the poorly graded area. I need to regrade and remove some excess dirt. I’m a little worried that I might be too close to the siding, but the drain is done otherwise.
I drilled a drain hole and finished adding rubber liner to the wall, along with fabric and a drain line. I’m in the process of laying rock, but ran out of rock – always the way! It’s almost done though.
I’ve done some work on the area behind the siding, using zip flash tape for added protection. The last step before installing the drain is adding rubber lining against the wall. I’ve put up one and I’m happy with how it looks.
I would appreciate some feedback on my plan to address the water issue in the area with poor grading. Long story short, I need to fix some waterproofing that was done poorly by the contractor.
I know I could have done a better job handling this issue when the foundation work was being done, but unfortunately, I didn’t catch it in time. I’m not releasing payment until the issue is resolved, but that’s a whole other situation. I’ve accepted that I need to take care of this myself.
My plan includes replacing
I made another change. In the photo, you can see a pipe with a sock. Following a friend’s recommendation, I replaced it with a traditional fabric/rock/pipe setup.
You know, I think adding another pipe along with 2-3 drain boxes or a true French drain system could be a good idea. The thing is, you might be facing two issues here. One is water inundation and the other is water saturation. This solution will help with saturation and keep draining water slowly. However, during a storm, a large quantity of water will still sit against the house. Having something that can quickly evacuate that water might work better. You can even connect them right before to minimize the work. It’s better than just having the percolation sock down the road filled with dirt.
Hey, I think that picture might need some editing. Check out what I got to replace that sock pipe
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That sounds like a smarter option, especially if you’re thinking of filling the trench with rock and having it exposed at the surface. I was concerned that most people would use the sleeve pipe, fill it with rock, then cover it with dirt and sod. This method doesn’t drain water quickly enough during heavy rain, leading to pooling and the need for percolation.
Sleeve pipe was returned after I discovered some negative reviews about it
Take out the pink board, dig down approximately 2 feet deeper, seal the exterior wall correctly, add rocks, and install a French drain properly.
The weather conditions are not suitable for a complete seal. There is a seal behind the pink board below ground level. I will have to address this issue again next year when the weather is warmer.
I gave back the sock and opted for rock and fabric.
Wow! It seems like all the water is directed towards your house! You may want to consider digging out the end of the ditch by the brick wall and adding more pipes with a slight slope to divert the downspouts away from your home.
Yep, Joe ohue. That wall will be cut out to allow the pipe to drain properly. Another 100ft drain line will be installed next year for the whole house.
Are you planning to cut out the wall at the bottom of the blue line to create a drainage valley and place a pipe so that water can flow through easily?
Joe ohue, you’d need to check out a clearer photo. It will be sloped upwards on both sides. That area in the center is where the water accumulates.
Exactly! Create an opening in the middle where the water flows down the valley and gathers in a pool!
Joe ohue yeah, that’s the plan for next summer. It’s pretty chilly here in Iowa. Haha. The ground was sort of already dug up, so I figured I should do this now before it snows, lol.
You might want to consider using a sledgehammer to break down that top step and create a drainage groove. Use a hammer drill with a concrete bit to get it done. It shouldn’t take more than 2 hours.
That pipe should go somewhere, such as coming out of the wall or connecting to a French drain at the back.
Planning to create a cut out in the retaining wall to allow water to flow out. The natural valley along my house will have a longer 100ft drain installed next year.
I’m working on a quick fix for a bigger issue. Gutters will be replaced once I’m done with this task.
Totally agree with you, mate.
If you can dig but the weather is too cold to seal, you could consider using a dimple membrane. This will channel the water towards your foundation drains.
That sounds like a great plan. I’ll grab something while the ground is exposed.
I think if done correctly, there would be no need for an additional waterproofing system.
Is it a cloth/roll on membrane? Painting might not be the best option at the moment
The one on my house seems to be mostly plastic, but I’ve seen some with a cloth side. I think I got one that matched the existing one from spycor building when I needed to do repairs.
Sounds good. I’ll check if our store carries something similar.
I went to the store and picked up some Oatly shower liners, they’re basically 5×6 rubber liners. I believe they will work well.
Just a question, not advice. Have you thought about removing the concrete steps and wall to create a swale between the houses that allows water to flow down and away?
That’s a great idea! Maybe we could tackle that during the summer.
Dealing with drainage near the house can be a challenge. Ensuring the water that comes close to the house drains quickly straight down is important. Consider building up the earth berm you created by digging a channel next to the house. Use treated 4×6 12-footers in a straight line to raise the level and keep water away from the house. Make sure the water does not breach your berm/line until you’re ready for it to flow in another direction. Additionally, pouring a sidewalk higher than ground level can help prevent water from pooling next to the house.
I totally agree. They really should have included more panels. I plan on extending them upwards and using flashing tape so that the panels go above the ground level when I finish. But yeah, it’s a bit chaotic. I believe that once the drain and panels are in place, it will make a difference.
Exactly how was the wall waterproofed by the contractor? What materials were used for waterproofing? How is the water that does come in contact with the wall being drained? How much crushed rock is present at the footing and where does the weeping tile drain into? Has the soil around the wall been pitched away from the house? Was a French drain installed to prevent surface water from reaching the foundation wall? All I can see is a 1-inch foam board, which alone will not stop water. It may provide a minimal thermal break, but not much more. Some additional details would be helpful.
Was responsible for replacing the foundation. They applied a water-repellent paint and foam board. The ground was sloped naturally or would be pitched to ensure water drainage. I intend to install a French drain on my own.
Hey , have you considered using paint-based waterproofing? Instead of butyl rubber or water drain matrix, you need at least 2 feet of drainage rock and drainage tile at the footer. This setup will prevent any water or moisture from seeping into the wall and your home. The ‘paint’ you used is not waterproof and may not be effective. Additionally, grading the soil away from the house and installing a French drain are good ideas, especially considering the water from your neighbor’s property. It seems like the neighboring property is higher than yours and slopes towards your house. Proper grading and waterproofing the foundation wall would be the best approach to tackle this issue. Good luck with your project!
You might want to reconsider how you did it as the water will collect at the dead end you made. Instead, try cutting out a section of the wall leading to the driveway to assist with drainage. Then, install a French drain with gravel around it.
My friend is cutting a U shape out tomorrow. It’s not finalized yet, just a concept check.
It looks like the drain pipe is too near to your foundation.
This temporary solution was intended to address the winter concerns.
The trench should ideally be deeper and positioned away from concrete with a slope leading into the trench. Work on replacing the fill with ample 1.5” drain rock. Having water against the structure is not ideal. Aim to utilize gravity to ensure water flows away from the building, not towards or underneath it. Best of luck.
I think it’s best to have a layer of rock underneath and all around the piping in a drain bed. Personally, I wouldn’t recommend covering it with dirt. Instead, I suggest filling it completely with rock, as it is less likely to wash away and can help prevent erosion from water runoff. Using a rougher type of rock like limestone can also deter termites, snakes, and other pests. Plus, it creates a sturdy walking path that won’t turn mushy after heavy rain.
I’m still debating whether or not I want to uncover the rocks. It’s a long story. And I can’t figure out a practical way to get rid of the dirt.
I totally agree about the drainage bed and pipe. Planning to install it either today or tomorrow.
A nice downspout wouldn’t hurt either.
Absolutely, . I’m on the same page. The new gutter is scheduled for Friday after completing this task.
Gravel…? Do you have a preference for using gravel in this scenario?
David S. Simpson
Great job!
May I ask where you’re located? I’m a bit hesitant to suggest using exterior rigid foam like this on a foundation unless absolutely necessary. By installing it, you’ve essentially created a sheltered, high-humidity area between the foam and concrete, which could attract ground-dwelling termites or carpenter ants without your knowledge. Additionally, this setup prevents the concrete foundation from drying outward, potentially causing moisture issues that lead to humidity, mold, and other problems within your home.
Davenport iowa. Honestly, I never considered termites or wood-damaging insects. The initial contractor used them because of the drainage problems and water pooling near the foundation. I simply extended it upwards.
This is my garage with the interior exposed, so I thought that would be a good way to test for any issues.
Where the foam originally stopped (prior to my addition) there was water seeping in. That’s why I thought raising it up would be beneficial.