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Can we successfully relocate our dishwasher to the left of the sink while ensuring proper water supply and drainage?

Asked by Britney Watts
2 months ago
Last Updated: September 21, 2024

We’re in the early stages of planning our kitchen remodel and we’re considering doing a major overhaul. We just realized that our dishwasher has its own water supply, separate from the sink, but it currently drains under the sink. We’re thinking about removing the “peninsula” where the dishwasher is located and moving it to the left of the sink. Luckily, the water supply is conveniently located directly under the dishwasher’s current spot. We’re still in the brainstorming stage to figure out if this is doable. I’ve included some pictures of the current setup and where we want to move things around. Our main concern is what to do with the water supply once the dishwasher is disconnected from it and hooked up to the sink, so we can cover it with flooring. Any advice on how to handle this would be greatly appreciated!

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Sarah Gagnon

Chop it off downstairs and use a Shark Bite cap on it.

Rick Hunter

Slice the tubing as close as possible to the T junction where it separates from the other water line. Then, attach a cap by soldering it on.

Hanna Simmons

If there’s a ceiling below, try pulling up on the vertical pipe from the floor to check its flexibility. Pull it up as much as you can, cut it, cap it, then push it down and carefully cover it with a board.
Before you start, check the basement or crawlspace to see if you can cut and cap where it begins.

Michael King

Make sure to secure the pipe with vice grips before cutting it off to avoid dropping it, and remember to check for leaks before removing the grips. You might also want to create a hole in the subfloor for easier access, then patch it up before laying down the new floor.

Debbie Jensen

What the heck is going on?
Well, try to trace that line back to the main and cut it there. If that’s not doable, just cut it beneath that floor and cap it. You’ll need a plumber to cap it with copper, not a shark bite since the line is copper.

Hanna Simmons

Shark Bite fittings got their name for a reason – they can cost you an “Arm and a Leg” if you’re not careful.

César Barreto

Trim it and cap it

Natalia Quiñones

Open up the ceiling below and remove it.
Let’s solder it! No shark bites.

Edit: If it’s just one pipe, go back to the source like Spencer mentioned

Heather Bates

Invest in a pro press to cut and cap it. The tool is pricey. When you’re finished, consider selling it to me at a lower cost.

Pearl Moore

Cut it below the floor level and cap the pipe securely.

Pearl Moore

Avoid using a sharkbite since it’s meant to be a permanent enclosed cap.

Layla Kennedy

It’s crucial to trace it back to the starting point.

If you don’t, you’ll end up with a long dead-end line.

In that stagnant dead-end, water quality will deteriorate. Chlorine levels will drop to zero. Over time, the water will become contaminated.

So bring that line back to the tee where it all began.

Ted Wood

It seems like you’ll need to hire a plumber to cap it since you may not have the tools or experience; let the plumber figure out the best solution.
Any connections after moving it are all up to you, so you’re not completely off the hook.

Isaiah Stevens

If you can’t get underneath, I think Eric and Arnold’s comments are your best bet. I really suggest soldering the cap on, don’t go with a sharkbite or any other type of push-on cap.

But what’s your plan for the electrical line? You can’t just cap it and slide it under the floor. And if you plan to use it next to the sink, is there enough slack? You can’t splice the wire under the floor, that’s against the rules. It needs to be spliced in a junction box you can access.

Isaiah Stevens

Hold on, is that concrete flooring?

Isaiah Stevens

Lol ok

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