Can anyone suggest a solution for removing the protective plastic from inside the Leviton non-tamper resistant outlets to make it easier to plug in lamps?
Asked by Pratyush Gatty 
4 months ago
Last Updated: May 17, 2024
Hey, just an update – we ended up getting the Leviton brand outlets that aren’t tamper resistant. Figured it would be easier than dealing with those tricky TR outlets again. Thanks for all your help on that decision!
Quick question though, has anyone found a way to remove that pesky plastic inside the outlet? It’s making it a real pain to plug in our lamps. We had to replace our floor outlets because of this issue, and now the new ones have the same problem. Really don’t want to go through this all over again!
Purchase some tamper resistant outlets
Your outlet is designed to be tamper resistant. If you’d like, you can switch to ones that do not have this feature.
Consider purchasing similar ones that are not tamper resistant. Just a heads up, this 10 pack will go on sale in 2 days and 13 hours: https://amzn.to/3ZPuFUq
It’s a safety feature. There are options available that are less safe if you prefer.
I’m not quite sure why you’re opting for 20 amp outlets for lamps, seems a bit much and could potentially be dangerous if used on a 15 amp circuit with a 20 amp device.
If the circuit has a 15 Amp circuit breaker protecting it, then the wire for the circuit should be 14 gauge. Imagine plugging in a space heater on HIGH, like 1500 watts, and then using a circular saw on the same outlet or circuit. The 15 Amp breaker would likely trip, de-energizing the circuit safely and protecting the property. Circuit breakers have this important function. Overloading won’t cause a fire if the circuit is up to code, thanks to safety-focused UL and other listing agencies. However, with a 20 Amp circuit and 14 gauge wire, overloading could lead to overheating or even melting of the insulation before the breaker trips. For 20 Amp circuits, 12 gauge wire is necessary. Remember, the smaller the number, the heavier the gauge, and the higher the current carrying capacity of the wire.
It is not in compliance with NEC code for a specific purpose.
These outlets have child-proof features so little ones can’t insert objects into them! Personally, these are the only ones I prefer to use š I have noticed they become easier to use with time. However, you do need to exert some force. If you prefer non-tamper proof outlets, it might be best to switch them out.
‘s lights have deteriorated and are not functioning properly, so we have to put in new ones.
It’s quite interesting that I’ve never encountered any issues with the ones I’ve personally installed. I’ll definitely make sure to only use outlets in areas where there will be children in the remodel project I’m currently working on.
We actually have two of those. They’re both embedded in the floor. One of them seems to have stopped working for us when it comes to plugging things in. As for the other one, I can still plug in my phone charger, but unfortunately, I can no longer use a lamp like I used to.
I totally agree with what others are saying about using a good brand. When it comes to the floor, consider getting a metal casing that’s specifically for floors to protect it when it’s not being used. Things just aren’t made the way they used to be.
Let me take a wild guess. Eaton brand, right? Those TR shutters they have are just terrible. You have to carefully insert perfectly engineered plugs at a very specific angle with a precise amount of pressure. And then, you grab a hammer and smash it.
With Leviton TRās, you won’t encounter this problem.
That is so true!
Laughing out loud. The previous one has Hubbell labeled on it š¤·āāļø
Are the ones you’re having trouble with from Hubbell? I haven’t personally tried Hubbell, but according to trade forums, their TR ones are effective. Eatons are simply terrible.
The TR stands for Tamper Resistant. You specifically paid for that function.
The protective plastic recedes when a plug is inserted with both pins simultaneously.
You should not take them out. Removing them would be a significant breach and put the outlet at risk. You have the option to purchase a non-TR outlet as an alternative.
Consider using a ground adaptor that can remain plugged in, then simply connect to it.
Make sure to plug them in evenly on both sides. That’s what they’re designed for. They still offer non tamper proof options.
Purchase a standard electrical socket
Avoid purchasing outlets specifically designed for a different use than intended š¤
Bring them back and get outlets without tamper resistance. They require a ground to plug things in.
Consider investing in higher quality tamper resistant outlets such as Leviton, rather than opting for cheaper off-brand options.
Purchased new lights from an electrical store in hopes of avoiding the same issue as the non-working Hubbell lights.
This is a purchase you can make. It will save you from the challenge of removing the seemingly unremovable plastic.
If you don’t need the TR features, why purchase another TR outlet?
If these items are left on the floor, it’s a good idea to have a barrier to prevent fire hazards or electrocution, unless they are already covered. That’s likely why they are designed that way.
They’re on the floor but they’re covered.
Actually, you should install non-tamper resistant outlets in certain locations where they are not compliant with regulations.
Outlets are actually really affordable. Just pick up some non tamper resistant ones instead.
They are known as tamper resistant to prevent children from playing with outlets and risking electrocution. But some areas have regulations that mandate them.
I can’t stand these TR outlets. The majority of them are not good.
I agree with , also, at this stage.
Wait, so you needed to swap out tamper resistant outlets and ended up buying more tamper resistant outlets? That right there indicates you might want to reconsider doing these outlet replacements yourself. š¤¦āāļø
I’ve dismantled some with USB ports. They were held together with screws. Once I opened them up, getting rid of the TR junk was simple.
A whole different story. We’re focusing on simple duplex receptacles here, not phone charger units.
It’s best to stick with regular outlets instead of tamper-proof ones.
When dealing with plugs, remember to rock them back and forth. Pressing both intertabs simultaneously is key, as they lock otherwise, preventing insertion on one side only. This is often a requirement for receptacles below a certain height as per the code.
There are no user-serviceable parts inside an outlet, so if you try to dismantle it by grinding rivets and potentially melting the plastic, reassembling it correctly while ensuring safety would be challenging. Plus, closing it up and fastening the halves back together would be no easy task. It would be much quicker to simply replace the outlets with non-TR type. Remember, code compliance falls on the electrician’s shoulders, so make sure to follow your local regulations. Personally, I’ve had no issues with reputable TR brand outlets. Investing a bit more in quality is worth it for you and your home. I opt for commercial grade whenever possible due to the secure terminations they offer.
When it comes to code, there’s no way to avoid it.
For the TR, it’s all about the quality. The lower-priced options are really frustrating and just keep getting worse. Invest in the high-end commercial ones!
They become easier over time.
Thatās a tamper resistantā¦. Each outlet you purchase will come with them, itās a safety feature to prevent children from getting shocked.. you need to insert both sides of the plug evenly at the same time and it will function properly, but hey, I’m just a licensed electrician
Until the safety feature stops working… it’s still safe, just not functional.
I think there are still non-tamper-resistant plugs available, right? Tamper resistance is important, especially if you have young children around. If you really want to remove it, just switch to a non-TR plug. ‘t tamper with that.
They are up-to-date with the building code. Just plug in the plug evenly and you’ll be good to go. Make sure to apply equal pressure for an easy fit. Welcome to the new building code!
I shop at lowes and they offer both tamper and non-tamper options. Of course, I prefer to keep things simple so I choose the non-tamper ones since we don’t have kids š¤£š¤£š¤£
Ette Pruitt I agree
These outlets are basically essential now, especially in floor installations. It seems like they are meant for a 20amp circuit, as long as your breaker can handle 20amps you’re all set.
Can we please get rid of that tamper proof nonsense?
Opt for regular outlets instead of tamper resistant ones
Those outlets are Tamper Resistant (TR). You have the option to switch them out for regular non-TR outlets, but it wouldn’t be up to code. The 2023 NEC now mandates that all outlets must be Tamper Resistant. If you don’t have young children or aren’t planning on selling the house soon, feel free to make the switch. You can find non-TR outlets at Lowes and Home Depot.