Can anyone provide guidance on how to identify the circuit and breaker size for a potential vehicle charger installation without hiring an electrician?
Asked by آرش حسینی 
4 months ago
Last Updated: September 9, 2024
I’m struggling to identify which circuit this is on, so I can’t figure out which breaker size it’s connected to. I need to know if it can handle a 50-amp breaker for a vehicle charger. I’ve tried switching off all the breakers that seem relevant, but none of them seem to affect it. Before calling an electrician, do you know of any easy tricks I could try to figure out the breaker size?
Your safest option would be to contact an electrician if you plan on using that with a 50 amp circuit.
Mike ingolaski I agree with you on that 👍
Mike ingolaski short it to identify which breaker it belongs to
Mike ingolaski the way it used to be done by experienced individuals
It seems like you may not be familiar with dead shorting a circuit and might not have the right equipment to trace it.
Exactly!! Improperly shorting it can cause damage to other equipment at the site if the system is not properly grounded. Plus, are you willing to cover the costs of any resulting damage from your advice, right?
So many tradespeople are unaware of the liability laws. There is a specific insurance for this scenario called ‘errors and omissions’ but it has limitations that may leave you unprotected. If there’s an accident resulting in injury or death, you could be held responsible. Imagine having to explain that to your family while you’re shelling out money for a lawyer to avoid jail time.
I may have done that a time or two🤔
I might have done that once or twice🤔
That seems like a pretty risky idea.
I don’t think it’s on a breaker. He mentioned he checked all breakers and power never went out 😅 I hope your comment doesn’t accidentally set his house on fire 😁
That’s why it’s not right to give advice to beginners. They should avoid asking questions here.
Mike ingolaski exactly! 👍
It should be connected to a 20 amp double pole breaker. Consider contacting an electrician as the current wiring may not be suitable for a car charger
Probably can provide around 12 miles per hour of charging. Not a lot, but sufficient for occasional visitors or owners of Leafs/Volts/PHEVs
If it’s a separate line and the charger is set up for a 20A breaker, then it should be able to handle it.
Could you break down what 2-pole means?
Oh no! You might end up getting injured
Absolutely not 50 amp.
It’s 20 amp 240 volts
So, the maximum breaker you can use for that is 20 amps, unless the previous person did some strange electrical work. And don’t even think about putting a 50 amp breaker unless there’s 8 gauge wire supporting it. (Unless you want a house fire.)
You’re the first person to actually make sense. I can’t believe no one has brought that up until now.
I was hoping someone would bring up the issue of cable size. You can’t just add a new breaker and run 60 amps on a 2.5 square or 14 gauge cable – that’s a recipe for disaster!
20 amp 240v
Oh, here’s a sign for you.
I swear by this one, . I use it every day.
Hey, you should give a licensed electrician a call.
We need everything to be bigger.
That’s a 20 amp, 240 volt circuit with normally #12 wire.
You can install a charger, but make sure it’s not 50 amp. It should be on a double pole breaker. Either way, consult a professional
That has to be one of the silliest meters I’ve ever seen someone use, right up there with a “wigggy”
And what’s the deal with wigs? They won’t deceive you and they work just fine. I suppose a lucky break just enhances your appearance.
Wiggys are top-notch. They show their true power when you reach 277/480… that’s when you really feel it. The plunger hitting the stop jolts you awake.
Sean McMahon is a beast on the field.
Can you tell me what’s the issue with using a Wiggy? I’m curious to know.
If an outlet remains live even after cutting off power, it could indicate power theft or another electrical panel somewhere.
Yeah, the absence of breakers cutting power is a concerning sign. I wouldn’t trust it for anything at that point.
Thumbs up!
That’s actually a 30 amp receptacle for 220 volts. You might have another panel box somewhere.
Hey, check out this 20 amp receptacle on rizzly’s website! It looks like a great option.
Please be careful not to spread misinformation if you’re not certain.
Rick oldsmith made a mistake.
Please refrain from speaking, according to Rick oldsmith
Sorry, but Rick oldsmith disagrees with you
Rick oldsmith is saying that it’s not a 30 amp receptacle
You should hire an electrician recommended by Rick oldsmith
Definitely go for the 20a 250v option by Rick oldsmith
20 amps running at 240 volts
It’s likely using a #12 wire on a 20 amp breaker. I recommend consulting a professional
If it were my house, I’d probably go with #14. Haha
Try using a proper voltage tester
Thank you so much for your assistance, !
Oh, I see now – the issue is that you folks are just not cutting it!
Will need a 20 amp 2-pole breaker.
Refuses to work with car chargers
Hey , do you have a breaker for that?
Hey Brian, what’s the issue? It was actually a good test back in the day.
I totally agree with ary, those guys are just being unfair to you. Just trip the circuit by bending a piece of wire into a u shape and inserting it into both blades. Once you identify the breaker, replace it with a 60 Amp breaker and you’ll be good to go. ‘t let those guys bother you!
They’re not teasing me! I’m not about to ask a group of fools a simple question.
You’re such a fool…
It might work, but you have to plan it out. Most (US) plug-in car chargers come with a NEMA 14-50 plug. Some can work with a NEMA 6-20 (since that’s the receptacle you have) adapter, while others might require a different adapter. If you use a simple adapter, the car might assume it’s on a 50A circuit and overload it. With a 20A circuit, the charge current should be limited to 16A (3.8kW) – usually, the car can be set to limit the charge rate. It can be done, but you must remember to adjust the current on the car. Still better than using 120V.
Finally found an answer!
You’re quite the risk-taker.
I think that tester is from greenlee, it was really dependable when it first came out.
This response is awesome, thorough, and super helpful. Thanks a bunch!
Hey, just an FYI, you can purchase EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment) that works with your NEMA 6-20 receptacle. No adapters required and it will adjust the charge rate to 16A. It may be slower (below 4kW) compared to properly wired EVSE (9.6 – 11.5kW), but it’s more reliable. It’s around $100 on Amazon.
Or even better, invest in a traditional vehicle. Not an EV.
Make sure you have solid fire and life insurance before going 60mph!
Thanks once more!
Recruited
Oh, I enjoyed that one!
Oh wow, I see you were trying to be funny, but jokes like that could seriously hurt someone. Time to mature a bit.
Couldn’t find a breaker. He turned them all off and the power stayed on. He’s going to set the house on fire.
Provided a pleasant, cozy cable.
Gave a terrible and unsafe response.
If you stick a fork in it, the breaker should trip. It’s definitely not a 50 Amp outlet. The wiring also won’t be the right size for 50 Amps.
It looks like most likely turned off the main power source.
Hopefully ‘s charger will work this time!
E V = ARBAE
You’ll need a 2pole 20 amp breaker for that, as it won’t suffice for an EV charger.
Steer clear of electricity if you’re not sure
There might have been unauthorized tampering at the main connection. Exercise caution if you can’t locate the breaker.
That’s probably just a 20 amp circuit. If you don’t want to call an electrician, contact your insurance company instead.
Try touching the ground and hot wire with a tool without making direct contact, close your eyes, and trip the breaker.
Connect the ground to the hot wire
Ph Duguay Please refrain from doing this…
Consider using a breaker sensor if one is available
That’s not what you mentioned earlier…
Now retired, encountered a case a few years ago with a single # 8 wire hanging in the basement. It had old cloth insulation and about 1/2 inch of bare copper exposed. The homeowner mentioned that she accidentally brushed against it and received a shock. It was near her washer, which was an old wringer. Despite turning off all breakers, it was still energized. Even after pulling the meter, it remained hot. Ultimately, a 4” box with a cover was installed, and to my knowledge, it’s still there.
Ph Duguay, those are not compatible with 220 volts.
Since when? It’s not recommended, but it should work if the breaker is functioning properly.
The plug type doesn’t match this specific outlet configuration.
We come across some really wild things in the field. I once had a single wire 480v #12 in a disconnect in a boiler room that I couldn’t confirm was off, and it accidentally touched the side of the hole while I was trying to remove it, causing an explosion near my eyes. I was blind for about 4 hours and thought it was permanent. Scary stuff. This happened around 6 years ago. But I’m okay now.
Ph Duguay, I have the Klein tester but it’s only good for 120v.
It’s rated for 20, but go ahead and put a 50 on it and watch your house burn down in 5 minutes. Just kidding!
Try having someone switch off one breaker at a time as you check for voltage. Keep at it until you locate the issue. Once you do, make sure to reach out to an electrician for help!
That circuit cannot be used for sure
The window A/C receptacle needs to be 240 volts and 20 amps. It cannot be any larger if the wire is 12 gauge.
Et in touch with an electrician.
I can’t help but laugh at the wink and the humor
This definitely won’t be able to handle 50 amps. It might require a larger two-pole breaker, or sometimes it’s connected to two separate single-pole breakers. If you’re working on one at a time, you might still have voltage on the other leg, giving you a misleading reading. In that case, it’s best to replace them with an actual two-pole breaker. In older houses, it could even be connected to a strange lever disconnect near the panel. I’ve even seen devices directly connected to the main breaker line side.
It’s most likely a 15 or 20 amp setup, possibly 220 volts for an old AC unit
You’re saying you turned off the breaker and it’s still hot, they might have bypassed it straight to a hot leg
To install a 240 volt 20 amp window A/C receptacle, make sure the wire is 12 gauge or smaller.
I found a 240v 20A circuit with one wire on each side of the bus, it took me a moment to figure out what was going on so I could fix it. Now it’s a 2 pole 20A circuit.
An older 220 volt 20 amp setup.
This is a 220V receptacle rated for twenty amps.
20 amp breaker two pole
Haha
Trim it down, you’ll see 😂
There is absolutely no way, under any circumstances, that it can be transformed into a 50-amp circuit.
It might be a good idea to contact a professional electrician
Use a circuit tripper, it’s a handy box with a piece of cord and cord-end with an NMC connector into a handy box with a 20 amp switch and cover! Put it all together and you have a new tool to plug in and flip the switch from off to on. The breaker in the panel should trip. I will send you a bill for my consultation fee, just need an address to send it to!
No content
I had one installed on two separate single pole breakers.
I recommend using a proper voltmeter for accurate readings. And remember to shut off the main breaker before checking if the power goes out.
The meter appears to be very old.
Two pole, 20 amps at 220 volts. Not 50 amps.
It’s probably going to be on a 20 amp double breaker. 240 volts.
You can’t utilize it for EV charging unless it meets EU level 1 standards.
Thank you, , for the help. This is great information!
If you can’t find one of these, just consider yourself lucky for getting free electricity. Load up that breaker with all the heavy stuff and don’t think twice about it lol
20 amp breaker two pole
Definitely NOT a 50 amp breaker. If you’re planning to install a vehicle charger, it’s best to hire an electrician. To check the breaker, plug in a light at the outlet and switch it on. Then, have someone toggle the breakers until the light goes out.
It’s best to steer clear of anything electrical