Can anyone help explain what the previous owners did with the washer drain in my new house?
Asked by Silke Pedersen 
8 months ago
Last Updated: April 30, 2024
I just purchased a house and I’m a bit confused about what the previous owners did with the washer drain. I’m new to all of this, so if anyone could help explain it to me, I would really appreciate it.
It seems like they were just as puzzled
Oh no, that’s not good. You might need to start over with everything
Unfortunately, I’m not as smart as .
I’m curious, why were the water lines placed on the exterior of the wall?
It seems like there used to be a slop sink or vanity against that wall in ‘s place
Is more affordable than redoing the drywall
My house is a mess right now because we had a broken pipe and my husband was out of work because of a back injury. We had to find the cheapest way to fix it.
‘s outside wall on the left is clearly in a freezing climate, as it is common to see water lines inside exterior walls in these conditions. As for the wall on the right? I have no clue what that mess is all about! 😄
I think it was an addition to the house and they didn’t finish it because they got lazy.
Let’s start fresh by using a metal braided hose
Special featuring Flipper
On one side, the utility sink is nowhere to be found and there’s a metal piece on the washer drain to hold the hose in place.
The large PVC pipe is where the washer drains. Simply attach the hose from the washer to that pipe. The smaller pipe on the left might have been intended for a tub sink, but it was never installed. The pex piping doesn’t look great, which makes me wonder if they were lazy, drunk, or both when installing it.
Doesn’t the big one on the right side look too large for the drain tube to fit over?
The drain tube coming off the washer doesn’t have to be a perfect fit because the curve in it will hold it in place. Newer washers can detect clogs or drainage problems and prevent overflowing if they’re not draining properly. The setup will still work fine, but it just doesn’t look very nice.
I’ll snap a few more photos once I’m back home to make things clearer. Thanks.
No pictures needed. Most codes require a 2-inch pipe for a washer drainage tube. That’s right. One thing I notice is the need for a proper cap on the left side. It seems to be plugged with a rag. Remove that and get a suitable cap to avoid any odors. You can shorten it and cap it if you don’t plan on installing a utility sink, which is probably what it’s meant for. Cutting it shorter and capping it is a simple task.
Oh, you gotta cover up that hole right here.
Sure, I do think the other hole is around 2 inches in diameter, maybe even closer to 3-4
Said that bigger is fine, but smaller is not.
Mickey Mouse is putting in the effort to move a washing machine
It seems like there used to be a wash tub or vanity positioned next to the washer.
We currently have this setup in our house from 1971. Originally, the washer and dryer were located in the dining room, but at some point, they added a small laundry room off the carport. The water and drain pipes are the same as this. It may not be the prettiest, but it gets the job done. Your washer will drain the water. You just need to connect the water supply lines as you would with a traditional washing machine box.
Hey , do you know where the washer drain goes on the fat pipe with a rag in it on the left?
Our drain is on the right and points upward. Your setup might be different since we don’t have that drain on the left with the rag in it.
Null
No content
It may not look the best outside of the wall, but it functions the same. All the connections are the same. If you prefer to relocate everything inside the wall, that’s a whole other story with a lot of details to cover.
Do you think I should use a wash tub or can I simply connect to the drain on the left?
So the washer drain hose works best when kept in that 2″ PVC drain that’s sticking straight up. It could potentially be relocated to the other wall, but you’ll need to add a sanitary tee to the horizontal drain line and extend the pipe in the same manner.
The previous homeowner enjoyed drinking alcohol.
Nothing to worry about. It just appears unappealing. The pex section might need some cleaning, but it won’t be visible for the most part. The ball valves near the washer drain control the water flow for the entire room. Slop sinks are useful if you have a small or medium-sized dog. They serve other purposes as well. However, the drain line and water supplies could be removed.
It seems like one drain is for the laundry sink and the other one is for the washer.
You have a stackable washer and dryer with a sink positioned to the left.
Hey , do you think I really need a sink or can I just use the drain instead?
It’s like watching the Three Stooges all over again.
It looks like the work was done carelessly, but the washing machine should still drain through the 2in pvc drain
Is that the one on the left with the rag inside?
Yikes, that looks like tough work. I really hope they didn’t pay someone to do that. You might want to think about redoing the connections for the hoses and mounting them to the wall with drop-ears, a small threaded pipe, and screw-on shut-off valves. It’s important because screwing the hoses on and off can put a lot of strain on the pex pipe fittings. Mounting them with drop-ears (to a 2-3 ft long 1×6 screwed into the wall) can help prevent future leaks.
The long drain on the left might have venting issues if you add a sink to it. If you were to drain a large amount of water at once, it could siphon the P-trap dry, causing a bad smell. You might want to think about adding a mechanical vent (like a Studor vent or an Air Admittance Valve) between the P-trap and where it connects to that pipe. This will allow
Here’s how I set up the washer/dryer connections.
This here is an air admittance valve. I had a long drain pipe similar to yours for the laundry sink so I decided to put this in to avoid any venting problems. I just realized I put the Sani-T in backwards from looking at the picture, but it’s all good since it’s just a vent and won’t impact the drain.
It looks like the Sharkbite fittings were installed without cleaning the pipe first, as there are different shades of paint on the copper pipe indicating it was painted during installation. This can lead to a weak connection and potential premature failure. To fix this, I suggest removing the Sharkbite and using a 1/2 sweat to pex crimp fitting instead. Make sure to properly clean the pipe before soldering the fitting on and crimping the PEX directly onto the copper pipe fitting. I’ll try to post some photos showing what I did in these situations.
That pex job is seriously the worst I’ve ever seen.
It may not look great, but it gets the job done.
This is exactly why I have a problem with pex. Not everyone can just suddenly become a plumber.
You should definitely consider calling a plumber to fix this mess.
The way they installed the water lines looks a bit crazy, but it’s okay if you want to keep it that way. Besides, it will be hidden behind the washer and dryer. The drain seems to be positioned high enough from the trap, so you should be fine.
Oh my goodness!
DIY done right! That setup is in pristine condition 😆🫡
Oh yeah, , that’s funny
Looks like a mess, but you’ve got all the necessary piping there to hook up your washer and dryer, along with a basin sink. The big pipe is for the washer drain hose. The metal strap on top lets you secure the hose with a zip tie. The pipe through the wall is for your dryer vent. The small pipe is for the basin sink drain.
Thanks , so all I need to do is put the drain hose in the pipe and make sure it’s secure?
Definitely, .
Oh my goodness
You know, this is exactly why I’m not a fan of Pex… the quality of work and the pride in how a job looks has really declined. Nowadays, even new houses have plumbing that resembles this mess. My dad used to say that if a project looks awful where everyone can see it, just imagine what it’s like behind the walls where no one can see.
PEX isn’t the issue with that job. The problem lies with the person who did the plumbing work in that area; they were lazy. Even if it were copper, it would still be a poor job.
The washer drain was meant to connect to the larger pipe sticking out. The other line is too low, so I think it was supposed to be a sink drain. It’s possible that their washer’s position forced them to hook it there, but the line would have to go up first, so I’m more inclined to think it’s a sink drain. I would simply cut that pipe and seal it off.
You should use the larger pipe sticking up for the drain. Is that clear?
I recommend using the larger pipe sticking up for the washer drain. If you opt for the other one, make sure to loop the washer drain hose up before inserting it into that pipe to prevent water leakage.
Arthur 3” open top pipe is the one you should use as a drain for the washer.
I absolutely adore people 😂😂
No content
The person who conducted your presale inspection should have informed you about the plumbing issues. It looks like you will need to invest a significant amount of money in repairs. I hope the selling price took this into account…
Everyone assured me that it’s fully functional, just not aesthetically pleasing, so I’m not worried.