Will my precautions of leaving the central heat on at 50 degrees, closing ventilation vents, turning off water at the meter, and covering outside faucets prevent freezing and bursting of the pipes during the sub-freezing temperatures?
Asked by پریا حیدری 
7 months ago
Last Updated: June 13, 2024
We’re bracing for temperatures below freezing for over 72 hours. This is new for us, so I have a question. I recently moved and still have my old house on the market. I’ve been keeping the central heat at 50 degrees. The HVAC duct work and strip heat are in the crawlspace, and the vents are automatic and closed. The laundry room is unheated and off the carport. I’ve shut off the water at the meter and opened all the faucets inside. The outdoor faucets are covered. Do you think this will be enough to prevent any remaining water in the pipes from freezing and bursting? Most of the pipes are PVC, except for the galvanized ones in the laundry room.
Are you referring to the white cpvc pressure lines or the pex which is blue and red? Pex is more resistant to freezing, whereas the white pipe is prone to cracking easily in cold temperatures.
Just the old white PVC and CPVC, not PEX
I totally get your concern about water in the lines. Hopefully, the furnace can keep them warm enough for you. It’s a good idea to have the water turned off just in case one of them cracks.
Hey, I’m planning on picking up an air/water adapter from a TV supply store. It’s supposed to work with the hose connection for the washers and faucets so I can try blowing them out. I’ll also take care of the other recommendations people have mentioned.
Thinks it’s a good idea. That’s how we prepare our camper for winter. Wishing you the best of luck
It’s really important to blow out the lines because any water left in them can freeze.
Sounds like a great plan! I’ll make sure to do it today.
I would recommend keeping it at a minimum of 55 degrees. Make sure to open the cabinet doors. Typically, it’s a good idea to let a faucet drip slowly to avoid the pipes from freezing. You can search online for tips on how to prevent pipes from freezing. Many water companies offer detailed information. Since the water is turned off, you’ll need to drain all of it out. Which faucet is the lowest? For me, it’s the outdoor faucet in my backyard that needs to be open to drain the water from inside the house as well.
Also, what will the low temperature be? (Having 31 degrees for 72 hours is very different from having 0 degrees for 72 hours)
Predicts changes every time I check, but the high will be 26-30 and the low will be 9-20 from Monday to Wednesday
I’d recommend turning up the heat to 55 at least, maybe even 60 just to be safe while you’re away.
If you’ve shut off the water at the meter, make sure to also open the outdoor faucets.
Be sure to open up all the cabinets where the pipes are, especially if they’re on outer walls.
Open up the cabinet doors under any faucets that are against an exterior wall. It might be a good idea to increase the thermostat to 60 degrees. It might add an extra $10 per day, but it’s a small price to pay for peace of mind.
I agree with , and I’d suggest turning it to 65-70. It would be a lot more cost-effective than dealing with a burst pipe.
One suggestion is to insulate the galvanized pipe located inside the laundry room. You can use towels, insulation, or pipe insulation wrap to keep the pipes warm and safeguard them from drafts, especially since they are not exposed to heat. If insulation is not an option, consider placing a portable heater in the laundry room to provide some warmth over the next few days.
Has a vanguard heater. Just make sure there are no fire hazards nearby and leave it on 1 brick from Monday to Wednesday
Is the owner
Add antifreeze to the toilets to avoid freezing or cracking
Just in case they end up without heat in the house, right?
Is getting the house ready for really cold temperatures. It’s always best to be safe than sorry, right?
Then make sure you get everything ready for freezing weather … that means all the P traps and more … not only the toilets … you never know, right? It’s better to do the whole job for better results, don’t you think?
Make sure to check the toilets
Make sure to drain and secure the laundry plumbing, including the drain (and add antifreeze to it). Simply covering the hose bibs with insulation won’t be enough to prevent freezing. Remember, insulation helps deter freezing but won’t completely protect the pipes. Even an insulated pipe can freeze if exposed to low temperatures for a long time. The key factor is the physical layout of the system and whether there is access to heat.
Depending on how cold it gets and for how long, you might be fine. Having some heat left on could be your savior. PVC can easily crack in such conditions. To properly prepare for cold weather, turn off the water, drain the water heater, open the lowest faucet, then the highest, to blow out the lines with air pressure. Follow up by opening all the valves and blowing air through them. Shut off the toilets, flush to drain the tank, and add antifreeze to the bowl. That should cover most fixtures. Faucet covers don’t offer much protection, so it’s best to remove them and open the valves to let the water drain. It seems like the laundry area will need extra attention. It’s a good idea to blow out those pipes separately. The mention of the “carport” location suggests that they are lower and more prone to holding water. Since it’s likely an unheated space, it’s a vulnerable area. Best of luck!
Thanks for the tips. It’s true, water heater and toilet issues can catch you off guard. I learned it the hard way when I had a rental property.
If you have heat, most of this won’t be necessary. Here’s how I prepare my unheated cabins for winter.
Also, remember to:
– Take apart the shower control valve, dry it, and shake out the cartridge.
– Disassemble and drain the toilet mixing valve.
– Use NTAF (non-toxic anti-freeze) in all drains (for traps).
– Blow out the kitchen sink spray nozzle.
– Turn on the washer at medium temp and blow out the water control box (inside).
– Put NTAF into the washer tub and let it drain for 10 seconds.
– Add NTAF into the dishwasher tub, let it drain for 10 seconds.
– Disconnect the dishwasher supply and drain the automatic shut-off valve.
– If the house trap is unprotected, use NTAF in it.
Do you have a well (and holding tank) or a water softener? Both of these may require attention too.
Is it below 32 degrees or below 0 degrees? The remaining step is to address the water in the lines, both supply and waste. Check for any areas where supply water could be trapped without draining. The vulnerable areas are near the water meter inside the house. Use a gallon of RV water antifreeze that is pink in color, available in RV supplies at Walmart (safe for potable water – not the vehicle antifreeze!). Follow the instructions to add it to each plumbing fixture drain p-trap, including sinks and toilets. Make sure to drain the toilet tanks as well.
Mentioned that the lowest forecasted temperature is sub 32, with 9 being the lowest. She just flushed the toilets to release the pressure off the lines.
It seems like you may end up with a $29 gas bill but a $1000 plumbing bill in your near future
I really hope not. The people here have given me some great advice to help prevent it
If there is a water valve near the main line entering the house, be sure to shut off the water heater and drain it. Also, open up cabinets containing water valves to allow the heat to circulate.
Is unsure about the process of draining the water heater. It depends on where it’s located. As long as the gas and/or electric connection is still in place, it should be okay.
‘s gas is currently connected and the pilot light is set to vacation mode, but I’m not sure if that will keep it warm enough. I want to avoid it evaporating and running dry, causing damage since the water is off for winter refill. Any issues with draining it? I plan on either leaving the Vanguard heater on one brick or using one of those radiator-style electric oil heaters to add some heat, but it’s a 10’x24’ room. Not sure if the oil heater will be effective unless I place it beside the heater.
Remember to turn off the hot water heater when shutting off the water to the house. Also, make sure not to leave any space heaters on – your home’s heater should be fine.
Hey , have you ever tried turning off the water to a house, draining the mainline, and cutting a line to repair it? Sometimes the water flows through the cold side due to backflow from the hot water heater.
Make sure to pour about 3 cups of antifreeze for plumbers in the washer, as many people tend to overlook the drain pump in washers.
Already sold the washer. I’m planning to go blow out the lines today. Thanks for the heads up!
Thanks a lot for the advice. I’ll head down after work to take care of these things I still need to do.
Make sure to disconnect any hoses that are currently attached outside. Also, remember to leave cabinet doors open so that the pipes under sinks do not freeze.
After draining the system, keep the valves open. This includes faucets and greybox valves.
Hey , where exactly is this house located? It sounds like you’ve really gone the extra mile to ensure you’re prepared. Just curious about the location because different areas have different expectations for cold temperatures. PVC pipes are pretty durable and shouldn’t freeze if you’ve drained them properly. Some folks suggest leaving faucets on if the water is off at the meter. And please avoid using space heaters under cabinets to warm them up, as it can be a major fire hazard, especially if you’re not around. Best of luck, and remember to open faucets slowly when turning the water back on.
The house is located in northeast Alabama. While I was living there, I could manage during sub-freezing temperatures by leaving faucets dripping, maintaining the house at 70 degrees, and keeping an eye on everything. However, this is the first time dealing with the house being empty. Today, I went there to blow out the lines, drain the water heater, and switch it to pilot mode. I also left the gas heater in the laundry room elevated on a brick in case of power loss or oversight on my part. The cabinets are open, central heating/air set at 60. Toilets are flushed and nearly empty. I had planned to use RV antifreeze for the toilets and drains, but I couldn’t find any. I’m hoping that everything will be fine, as I’ve never encountered any freezing issues with drains here.
Make sure your heat is set to a minimum of 55 degrees.