Looking to replace my tub with a new tub/shower kit from Menards or Lowes, how can I address the height and sash wall issues, along with the peeling ceiling and black specks?
Hey everyone! I could really use some advice without any judgment. My old farmhouse desperately needs some updates. The tub/shower combo is peeling, the ceiling in the shower is a mess, and the tub has an old repair that doesn’t look great. It’s really bumming me out because I love my nightly bubble baths, but it’s hard to enjoy them in this situation.
I’m thinking about getting rid of the tub and replacing it with a new tub/shower kit. I don’t want to do a complete overhaul, just something simple from a place like Menards or Lowe’s.
I know painting isn’t the best solution, so I’m not going that route. I have some questions though:
1. The dimensions of the current setup seem pretty standard, except for the height. The tub has this partial wall above it that might be an issue with a new tub/shower combo. Any ideas on how to work around that or make it flush with the ceiling? Is there a reason for that wall being there in the first place?
2. The ceiling has black specks and is peeling, so I think the waterproof board up there needs to be replaced. Is there a better way to handle this and any moisture that
You are experiencing mold and moisture issues in the ceiling because the vapor becomes trapped in that space above the tub. The best course of action is to remove all the drywall, open up that enclosure (it shouldn’t be load-bearing, so you could remove that section of the wall), remove the old tub, and proceed from there. If there are any leaks or issues, they are likely due to the poor installation of the current tub. However, you need to strip it down to the studs to determine what’s happening. Once it’s down to the studs, you can measure everything and select the appropriate tub and enclosure; if the opening is too large, it’s a simple fix (frame it in to fit the size).
I think you should remove the section of the wall I marked.
Definitely remove the lower part of the ceiling and tub surround. It will create more space, prevent mold, and allow for a taller unit. It addresses many of the issues you’re facing.
I just hope this isn’t your only bathroom because it’s going to require some time and effort to fix, as is recommending. As you probably already know, old house issues seem to multiply in size as you work on them and I hope you can just focus on this without being under time constraints if this is your only bathroom.
And thank you for sharing your real-life experience! Not everyone has the means to fix things right away and have to live with what they have until they can. Hope you’ll be able to share your after photos soon.
Roberto took my spotlight lol. et rid of that furdown. Humidity is getting trapped in the enclosure causing condensation which is leading to your paint/ drywall damage. I’d also suggest getting an exhaust fan installed as well.
Also if you don’t have the budget for a potentially expensive remodel, which this could turn into, there are 1-piece tub/shower overlays available now. I just saw a brand new one on offer up. But they also have them at Lowes. The one on offer up was $200. A bit more at Lowe’s.
What’s your budget looking like for this project? We recently had a leak due to a crack in a plastic (yes, ABS plastic) bathtub. Quotes to replace ranged from 6-11K just for the tub- not feasible at all. So after a long discussion, my husband and I decided we would handle this. First thing on the list was choosing a tub and surround- we opted for the bootz mauicast package from HD. It was priced under $1000, the tub is porcelain on steel, and the direct to stud setup for the walls is very solid. We delved further, and we made the decision to also replace the floor tile, and make sure there were no surprises waiting for us. I also requested for him to move the vanity light up, we’ll be doing a complete repaint, and I selected a new vanity. In total, we’re looking at about $1700. We still have to paint and lay tile, but apart from that, it was pretty straightforward. A heads up, though- shower valves are all proprietary, so if you have a Delta valve in your wall, a Pfister trim kit won’t be compatible with it. You have the option to switch out the valve while you’re in the wall, but you need to be comfortable working with plumbing. Personally, in your situation I’d open up that alcove to the ceiling if you can so there’s no “awning” over the tub. I’d also upgrade the exhaust fan to something a bit stronger, if possible. Depending on the size of the room, redoing the floor (even with subfloor) shouldn’t break the bank as long as the joists are in good condition. We found a really nice slate look tile for under $2 per sq ft. I added progress pics- the tub part took a few days, removing tile and mortar took a few days (tile was easy, removing the old mortar was time-consuming). Edited to add- our house is 112 years old and definitely not level. Keep shims handy. The former owner of our home was a C who skimped on/cut corners on everything. We’ve had to make so many odd repairs since we bought this place.
If you have the means, just redo the whole room
I’m not sure which state you’re in, but in my state, there’s a place called Western Market that sells complete fiberglass shower inserts for $400. They are brand new, with no issues, as they receive truckloads of home improvement items per week that they purchase on closeout and sell at discounted prices. You might want to search for a similar store in your area; also, any Habitat for Humanity store usually has materials for such projects at very affordable prices. Our local store had tankless water heaters for 60% less than anywhere else, donated to them brand new in boxes!
Where are you located?
From Oklahoma.
My wife and I completely redid my dad’s bathroom in just one week. We ripped everything out, put in moisture-resistant drywall, and even added some wood accents for a cozy touch. With all these updates, mold shouldn’t be a problem unless there’s a major issue like a leak.
No content
That’s awesome! It looks fantastic.
Hey , I love how your walls turned out! What product did you use and where did you get it? I’m planning to redo my shower and want to go for a similar solid surface look.
We got it all at Menards! We picked up Flex Stone for the walls, a Sterling shower base, an Alliance shower door, and a Delta shower control. It came out to $2500 in total.
I appreciate it, ! I’ve been checking out articles and watching some videos about that product.
Terri reene FlexStone is like plastic panels with a protective film on top, about 1/4 inch thick.
As someone who installed a 5 piece surround, please don’t skimp out. Our surround has continuous cracks at the seams and at the tub lip.
You will need to remove the entire shower enclosure down to the studs. This will ensure that you eliminate any water damage. In our bathroom, we hired a plumber to install the tub and bring the shower head height up to code. The rest of the work, I handled myself. Here’s a breakdown of our expenses: $700 for the bathtub, $800 for the plumber, $400 for Kerdi board material, $200 for knobs and shower head, $1,000 for tiles, and around $400 for grout, mortar, drywall, joint compound, and other supplies. In total, it was just under $3,500. Since it was my first time, everything took longer than expected. I initially thought it would take two weeks, but it ended up taking a month due to limited work hours. Make sure you have a spare bathroom if you decide to tackle this project on your own.
We thought it was a good opportunity to change the flooring, so we ended up completely renovating the space. I believe we’ll be investing approximately 10k in total.
‘t doubt yourself. Put in the effort and make things happen. Bad days shouldn’t lead you to believe you have a bad life. Success often comes from hard work, dedication, and the determination to achieve financial stability/success. Living paycheck to paycheck and waiting to afford what you want isn’t worth it. Here’s an opportunity to achieve financial stability and lead a healthy lifestyle. Mr. Oswell was the person who helped me turn all my dreams into reality with his cryptocurrency expertise to help me earn significant profits. Now, I’m grateful to be part of this success. Contact him below 👉 Oswell eovanny
Hey there, It’s probably wood blocking or “nailers” between the studs at the level of the tub flange height- this is to provide support for the tub flange and the current shower kit attachment points, such as screws, nails, adhesives, etc., and fixtures. As mentioned above, you will need to demolish the shower walls and everything down to the studs to understand the situation. Also, remove the ceiling as you intend. Measure all the dimensions of the space and ensure the new kit fits properly. Add nailers and blocking as required at points that need fasteners. Mark them on the walls so you know their location. Check for levelness and alignment. If you’re not comfortable doing your own plumbing, hire a professional to install proper supply lines and waste line- this can prevent costly issues in the future. Install your new shower/bath kit. Additionally, after removing the moldy ceiling, I recommend installing a vent fan that can pump out 80-100cfm (cubic feet per minute) and ensure it exhausts outside through your roof or at least into an attic space with proper ventilation. This will help prevent excess moisture buildup. ’t forget to use mold-resistant drywall for the ceiling. Watch some installation videos on YouTube and go for it. ood luck 🤞
If it’s simply black specks, it’s most likely mildew, not mold but you can purchase a test on Amazon that will provide results in a few minutes (look for the one that’s 5-minutes or something similar so you don’t have to send it off to a lab and wait). If you enjoy having that recessed area, I would consider adding an extra vent fan in there to assist with moisture (personally, I would eliminate it). Double-check the existing vent fan to confirm it is venting to the outside and not into your attic, which is quite common in older homes. Once the tub and wall above are removed, it should be simple to install the new unit (I would opt for a tub and then tile to the ceiling but I understand if you prefer something quick and easy)