How can I retrieve a lost post and fix a crack with wood glue and clamps?
Asked by César Roque 
4 months ago
Last Updated: July 26, 2024
I remember posting about this a while ago, but now I can’t find it. Any ideas on how to fix it? I think I’ll need some wood glue and clamps, but how should I go about getting the glue into the crack?
Wood filler that is able to be stained.
Rab a syringe and fill it with glue – you can buy some at a farm store.
The phenomenon is known as checking. The wood had a weak spot that tended to split during contraction. The best solution I found was using a product with some flexibility, as it can accommodate the natural expansion and contraction of the wood.
Thinks that the raw stock was laminated before being milled into its current shape. She believes that the split occurred at the stock seam and suggests trying dry clamping to close the gap. If the gap closes, she recommends releasing the clamps to apply glue, followed by clamping and countersinking screws.
If the joint closes easily when clamped, you can fill it with wood glue using a syringe, clamp it down, and wipe away any excess. If the joint doesn’t close with clamps, you’ll need to use filler. However, this may require refinishing the newel post, and fillers can be tricky to stain.
In my opinion, I doubt that simply gluing will be effective. I would recommend filling, sanding, and then painting the crack.
I recently watched a video where someone used a vacuum to draw glue into tight spaces like this.
To avoid making a mess with glue or filler, apply painter’s tape on both sides of the crack.
Make sure it’s completely closed first. If it is, then use a syringe to inject a generous amount of glue into the crack. You want it to come out a bit. Use a lot of clamps. I suggest using some type of screw clamp with boards on each side to protect the pole. Clamp it really tight! Wipe off any excess glue with a wet cloth and/or sponge. Allow enough time for it to set before removing the clamps.
You can also find large gauge syringes at places like tractor supply designed for livestock. Make sure the boards you use between the clams match the radius of the post to avoid creating flat spots from clamping pressure.
Consider purchasing a glue syringe for applying glue precisely into the crack. If it works for injecting turkeys, it should work for this too.
Syringe can be very useful.
Try using wood shavings along with glue.
I’ve actually done that before with a kid’s ear syringe.
Fill it up with caulk or putty and then paint over it.
The force of gravity
I’d just get a new one instead.
Just leave it there. It gives it character.
Consider drilling a screw to pull it together.
Bring in a shop vac to suck the glue all the way through. Then, clamp it with as many clamps as you can. This is a common method for repairing split wood. Additionally, if the wood is dark or stained, consider using wood glue made specifically for those types. Test the color by dying a small dot and comparing it against the wood first.
Lay it on its side. Apply a line of glue over the crack. Work the glue deep into the crack using a business card or anything similar in stiffness. It’s fine to overdo it with the glue. Clamp it down and wipe off any excess with a damp rag.
Rab some wood putty and a spreading knife.
If it were me, I’d opt for wood glue. Using a syringe to apply it works well. Also, consider countersinking screws and plugging them for a cleaner finish. Relying solely on glue may not be the best choice.
You could try using a syringe, or simply squeeze it in there. Pre-drill, use wood finish screws, and cover with putty.
Utilize glue, clamps, and countersunk screws. Allow it to dry before filling the holes and restaining the surface.
It seems like the two pieces were glued together and have separated, as indicated by the grain. I recommend using countersunk screws with plugs. This issue may occur again on the other side.
Suggested to counter sink and cap off with a plug, just like Hank said. It won’t be visible and will look good as new.
Yep, black trim screws are the way to go! Coarse threads, countersink heads, and use a #2 square drive bit. Make sure to pre-drill first.
If the crack extends all the way through, hold a vacuum on one side and apply glue on the other side. This method works really well, as I have used it multiple times with Titebond Ultimate wood glue.
Apply glue on a cotton string to create an even layer on both sides simultaneously. Let the glue slide down an inclined string to follow the curvature on top. Utilize powdered marine epoxy, which you can mix with water from a can. Wrap several loose loops of soft rope around and twist both ends simultaneously to act as a clamp for circular wood. Note: You might need to widen the seam for complete coverage, as full glue coverage is essential. Identify stress or misuse points to understand the cause of the issue. We prefer marine epoxy because it can be easily stained.
Applying glue and using compressed air to fill the cracks. I have a hunch that it might reopen even after applying glue and using clamps.
Use a small syringe to inject the adhesive into the crevice. Place blocks of scrap wood on both sides of the square area to prevent clamps from leaving marks. Wrap a soft piece of fabric around the circular part to safeguard the finish, then secure it with hose clamps. Align the edge of the fabric with the crack so you can easily wipe away any excess glue that oozes out before it sets.
Make sure to get matching wood filler.